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What You Should Know About Being a Feline Foster Parent


Foster care is one of the most important aspects of pet adoption programs. Shelters and rescues depend on foster homes for many reasons – to increase their ability to help more cats and to socialize cats in their care so they have a better chance at finding their forever home, just to name a couple. 
But to many, foster cat parenting is daunting.  If you’re intrigued but have yet to take the plunge, here are five things you should know about being a foster cat parent. 

1. Fostering saves lives

Bringing a cat into your home from a shelter or rescue helps to socialize him and make him more adoptable. Plus, it makes room for another cat in that shelter or rescue to be saved!  
Some cats need to get out of the shelter environment in order to thrive. Celeste Lindell of Kansas City, KS, is fostering her first cat, a sweet shy girl named Tinkerbell, who was withdrawn and not showing well at adoption events. When Tinkerbell first came to live with her, she was withdrawn and unfriendly. But, Lindell is happy to report, “She’s really transformed and it has made a big, big difference.” Now Tinkerbell likes to spend time with Lindell and her husband and is a different cat now that she’s in a home. Will Tinkerbell be more adoptable now that she is more socialized? “Oh, absolutely,” Lindell says. “I think it does make a difference.  She has made noticeable progress.” 

2. You can find the perfect situation for you

Fostering a pet doesn’t mean an ambiguous, ongoing commitment. Many people fear that taking on a foster means there is no exit strategy. On the contrary: Organizations are interested in making each foster placement a success, which means ensuring everyone involved understands the expectations from the get-go. “There are many choices, and the key is to match the ideal candidate with the ideal foster cat,” says Layla Morgan Wilde, holistic cat behaviorist, rescuer and author of Cat Wisdom 101. 
If all you can offer are short-term stays, great! There is always a need for “emergency” overnight foster homes. If you have more time on your hands and are able to commit to longer-term care, there are always cats who need someone to work with them on trust or socialization issues.
Do you just want mellow yellow? Plenty of lap cats need a safe place to crash while they’re waiting for their forever home. Got a thing about kittens? Oh boy, you are in luck! There are always plenty of fuzzy little bundles of sweetness who need to stay with someone who will cuddle and nurture them until they’re a little older and ready to adopt. 

3. It's a low-cost way to help -- and enjoy -- cats

Shelters and rescues pay for the food, supplies, and medical costs for a cat while she’s in your care. True, you are often limited to the products and vet care the organization uses, but there should be no need to outlay cash for your foster cat. Many foster parents do purchase additional supplies or different food, but the most important thing you bring as a foster home is your time, patience and love. 

4. It teaches you about your own home 

Fostering is a great way to test-drive certain scenarios. If you already have pets, how would they react to a new addition? You never know until the situation presents itself and bringing on a foster cat is a low-risk way of seeing whether the dynamics of your existing house change with a new member. You might find that your pets love having a new playmate, or the new addition may be unwelcome. Either way, your foster cat is temporary and will help you make long-term decisions with more information. 
Fostering can also teach you a lot about yourself and your preferences as a cat caretaker. Are you good with kittens? Do you prefer an older, mellower cat? Maybe you find you love the revolving door of cats who need your help. Or perhaps you realize fostering just isn’t for you. That’s a good thing to know as well. 

5. Don’t worry about getting too attached

A lot of would-be foster parents fear finding themselves with yet another permanent resident, or being heartbroken when they have to let the cat go to her new, forever home. While both of these scenarios are realistic -- and common -- they aren’t a given, and you shouldn’t fear them. “I have been hesitant to foster before,” says Lindell, who adds that she didn’t want to become too attached. “It just seems like a slippery slope although now that I have her I think it was an unfounded fear on my part.” 
If you do end up adopting your foster cat, you are saving a life and adding a wonderful member to your family. As for being heartbroken when someone else adopts your furry charge, it will soon turn to joy and gratitude that your special foster cat has found a loving, happy home. And, really, what could be better?  
Finally, you might surprise yourself: Many foster parents report that they have developed an ability to love their fosters but not get too overly fond of them. They understand that by maintaining the status of foster parent, they can help many, many more cats than they could if they kept adopting every one. 
Fostering is truly one of the most important ways you can help save more cats in your area. If you’re considering it, why not give it a try?  Tell us some of your foster stories and tips below. 

All information from Catster. 

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Four Places to Pet Your Cat — and One to Leave Alone


Some things really do get better with age. I have long joked that my hairline isn’t one of them, but I know one thing that is: My ability to understand cats better, and to build a stronger, more fulfilling bond with the felines in my life and in my practice.
Which is not to say that I haven’t always loved cats, and had them in my life. But on the Idaho dairy farm where I grew up, everyone had a job, and the cats were employed keeping mice and other vermin from taking over the place. Ours was a professional relationship, an admiration of coworkers.They did their jobs, and I did mine. Workplace romance was strictly limited to a little heavy petting now and then.
I’m no longer a farm boy, but I’m still more than a little bit country. Up here on our Almost Heaven Ranch, I still have barn cats, but they are much more than coworkers now. They’re family.

Feline Love: Breaking the Code

I’ve spent my life caring for and about animals, and I’ve always been a careful observer of what makes them happy. I know the “sweet spots” on every pet I’ve ever met, and since Almost Heaven is a horse ranch (with Quarter Horses whose personalities rival Golden Retrievers for sweetness), I know what makes equine hearts sing too.
But I also know if you hit the wrong note on many a cat, you won’t be singing a happy song for long. And while most cat owners eventually figure that out on their own, you could be one of those people whose current cat tolerates pretty much anything. Your next one, though, could be scratch-happy if you don’t know where to go.
Which is why I love sharing about caring, and in cats that means sticking to four top spots for heavy petting, and ignoring one spot that dogs love but that most cats never will.

Do Not Touch!

Are you ahead of me on the one spot most cats don’t like but most dogs do? If you guessed “belly rub,” you’re right! Why the difference? While dogs are generally pretty secure in their identity as a predator — even tiny dogs seem to imagine that they’re really big, scary wolves — cats have to be more careful when they’re on the prowl. That’s because they are very aware that they are both predator and prey. To a mouse, a cat is an effective killing machine. To a coyote, a cat is lunch.
What this means for a cat is that he's always looking over his shoulder at what might be coming up behind him. When a cat is in a fight for his life, there’s no territory as important to protect as the belly, since that’s where all the vital organs are readily accessible. A touch there from a cat who hasn’t learned that you don’t mean any harm will trigger a defensive maneuver. Claws and teeth come out, even if they’re not fully engaged.
While some cats can learn to accept gentle belly rubs, others never will. Honestly, it’s probably better to stick to the spots cats do enjoy, even if your cat shows his belly all the time.

Scratch Here, Please

The places cats enjoy being petted are those where their scent glands are concentrated. When your cat rubs on you or the corner of your couch, it’s his chin and the head that make the contact. When a cat does that, he’s leaving his scent on the item (or person). Spreading his scent makes him happy and content, since it makes his environment smell familiar. (Synthetic versions of these pheromones — Feliway is the feline version— are great for helping cats get through stressful events such as moving or going to the veterinarian.)
When you pet a cat in these areas, you’re making him feel wonderfully content. And you’re also helping him to mark you with his special scent, which makes him even happier. So what are these hot spots?
  • Base of the chin. Rub your cat gently along the underside of the chin, especially where the jawbone connects to the skull. You’ll likely get the purr-motor running hard, as your cat pushes into this pleasant caress.
  • Base of the ears. Like the area underneath the chin, this spot is great for scent-marking. When your cat bumps his head against you — this is called “bunting” — he’s marking you as his own.
  • Cheeks behind the whiskers. Hit this spot right and you can often get your cat to show his pleasure keenly by rotating his whiskers forward, as if to say, “More! More! Yeah, right there!”
  • Base of the tail. I call this “Elevator Butt.” A gentle caress down the back with pressure at the base of the tail. Repeat, repeat, repeat!
Work your way through these kitty hot spots, and the love you share will only grow. You’ll have earned your tabby stripes as a cat whisperer, and your cat will love you for it.

All information from Vet Street. 

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7 Trainer-Approved Puppy Housebreaking Tips


Q. We're bringing home a new puppy. Do you have any suggestions for house training?
A. Patience is key when it comes to housebreaking because every pup will pick up the process at his own pace. And unless a dog is taught where to eliminate, he'll look for any spot that's convenient and safe, which often ends up being the carpeting! Unfortunately, dogs aren't born with the moral reasoning to understand that going to the bathroom inside the house is wrong.  

Since dogs innately want to keep their personal area clean, they will venture away from their own territory to use the bathroom. But many owners make the mistake of giving a puppy too much space too fast. In this case, the dog has little incentive to wait to go outside, since his personal roaming space only makes up a small portion of the home.  

Tip #1: Get a Crate

It's best to use confinement to teach your dog that he has to wait to go to the bathroom outside the house. You can do this by purchasing a crate, so the puppy has just enough space to turn around and lie down. Another alternative, if possible, is to keep the puppy by your side at all times while clipped to a four- to six-foot leash.  

Tip #2: Honor the 15-Minute Rule

Puppies are most likely to use the bathroom within 15 minutes of eating, drinking, playing, exercising or waking up from a nap. After any of these activities, your puppy should be given an opportunity to go to the bathroom.
A general rule of thumb for how long puppies can hold their bladders: one hour for every month of age, plus one. So if a puppy is two months old, he can wait up to three hours. However, this varies from dog to dog, and a puppy should be taken out more often than his maximum hold time. I train owners to take puppies out to the bathroom every one to two hours or after any activity that stimulates elimination.
It's important to consult your veterinarian if your puppy seems to have difficulty holding his elimination for reasonable amounts of time for his age, because this could signal a medical problem.

Tip #3: Reward a Job Well Done

When it’s time for a bathroom break, take your puppy outside to the same proper elimination area each time. If he goes to the bathroom within five minutes, praise him and offer treats as soon as he does his business.
Don’t take your puppy immediately back to his confinement area, which can actually read as punishment to him. Instead, opt for a 10-minute block of supervised play in a bigger area before putting him back in the confined space. However, if your puppy does not eliminate outside, calmly place him back in his confinement area, wait 15 minutes and then try again outdoors.  

Tip #4: Accidents Happen

Never punish your puppy if he has an accident in the house. This only teaches the dog to fear the idea of going to the bathroom when people are around, and he will likely still go in the house — just not when his owner is looking. Instead, if you catch your puppy in the act, you can interrupt him with an “oops,” and immediately take him to his proper elimination area outside.  
Consider using enzymatic cleaners on any potty spots to keep your dog from smelling previous accidents and going there again.  

Tip #5: Introduce Space Gradually

As your puppy stays accident-free in the confined area, you can gradually expand his space privileges by introducing him to a new room. After one week of success without accidents, open up yet another area of your home.
However, if accidents start happening, confine him back to the previous level of success. And keep to his regular schedule of bathroom breaks, rewarding for proper elimination, throughout the entire training process.

Tip #6: Get Out of Bed

During the night, you may need to take your puppy outside multiple times. Don’t push your puppy to hold his bladder past the limit for his age or individual ability. If accidents happen at night, it’s critical that you take him out more often — the more a dog messes in his personal space, the more comfortable he will become with lying in his filth, making housebreaking difficult.

Tip #7: Don't Rely on Puppy Pads and Newspaper

Although dogs can be transitioned away from them, it makes the house-training process more complicated. I often see canines who are trained to go on pads as puppies, but they're not allowed to do so as adults, which only leads to confusion and accidents in the home.

All information from Vet Street. 

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How Can I Teach My Dog to Drop a Toy?

Q: How do I teach my dog to let go of a toy he is holding in his mouth? He thinks it’s a game of tug when I try to take a toy away.


A: One of the first commands dogs should learn is “drop it,” which teaches them to willingly let go of an item in their mouth, whether it be a toy, chew or miscellaneous item they may have picked up. Drop it can be a lifesaver if your dog has something dangerous in his mouth. I’ve used this before when my dogs have picked up something during a walk or around the house, such as a food item I didn’t want them ingesting. It’s also an essential behavior for dogs to know for polite play.

Drop it is also helpful for teaching dogs to let go of valued resources willingly, which is important in preventing resource guarding. If your dog already shows signs of resource guarding, such as acting aggressively or anxiously (growling, snarling, snapping, freezing in place or showing the whites of his eyes) when you approach his toys, food or resting places, contact your veterinarian for further help and a possible referral to a trainer or animal behaviorist, since this is a critical issue that needs to be addressed by a professional.

If your dog is not guarding his toys but is holding on to them as a form of play, drop it can be an excellent solution.

Teach Your Dog to Drop It
Start with an item your dog doesn’t place a high value on but is likely to put in his mouth, such as a rope toy. Say “take it” and give him the toy. While some dogs may immediately grab the toy, others may need to be coaxed; make this part more exciting by waving the toy excitedly or shaking it right by the ground. You may even need to use a low-value chew, such as a plain rawhide. As soon as your dog takes the toy, praise him.

Now move on to teaching him to let go. Say “drop it” and wait one second, and then do something to get him to let go of the toy in his mouth. For many dogs, this is as simple as placing a treat in front of his nose or — for toy-crazy dogs — pulling out a toy that is even more exciting than the one he already has in his mouth. As soon as he drops what he is holding, mark with a “good” and immediately treat or give the new toy.
I like to move the dog away from the original toy or chew he dropped by tossing the reward out and away so the dog has to move to get the reward, which allows the original object to be picked up in anticipation of the next session.
Make "Drop It" Part of Play
As you practice, teach your dog to respond to the verbal cue by saying “drop it” and waiting a little bit longer each time before doing whatever it is that gets your dog to drop the object. You can also teach him to respond to a hand signal by saying “drop it” and then moving an empty hand, shaped like it is holding a treat, in front of your dog and immediately marking with a “good” when he drops the toy. Once he drops what he is holding, give him a treat or toy as a reward.

Once your dog understands what drop it means and performs the behavior when asked, you can incorporate it into play, such as games of tug or fetch, by making it a condition of the game that he drops the toy on command before the game continues. If he will not drop the toy on command, the game is over.

If your dog ever picks up an item he should not have, ask him to drop it, and then reward him for dropping it or redirect him to a different outlet, such as replacing a sock he picked up with a dog toy that is OK for him to carry in his mouth. Practice this behavior in numerous areas and with various items to help your dog generalize the behavior and make him more likely to let go of whatever item is in his mouth, regardless of the situation.

All information from VetStreet. 

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Dog Bite Prevention


Dog Bite Emergencies

If you are bitten by a dog, here is a checklist of things you should do:
  • If the dog's owner is present, request proof of rabies vaccination, and get the owner's name and contact information.
  • Clean bite wound with soap and water as soon as possible.
  • Consult your doctor immediately or go to the emergency room if it's after office hours.
  • Contact the dog's veterinarian to check vaccination records.

Did you know that ...

  • 4.7 million people in this country are bitten by dogs every year
  • children are by far the most common victims
  • 800,000 Americans receive medical attention for dog bites each year
  • children are far more likely to be severely injured; approximately 400,000 receive medical attention every year
  • most dog bites affecting young children occur during everyday activities and while interacting with familiar dogs
  • senior citizens are the second most common dog bite victims
There are a number of things that you can do to avoid dog bites, ranging from properly training and socializing your pet to educating your children on how, or if, they should approach a dog. Information is one of the best cures for this public health crisis.

What's a dog owner to do?

  • Carefully select your pet. Puppies should not be obtained on impulse.
  • Make sure your pet is socialized as a young puppy so it feels at ease around people and other animals.
  • Don't put your dog in a position where it feels threatened or teased.
  • Train your dog. The basic commands "sit," "stay," "no," and "come" help dogs understand what is expected of them and can be incorporated into fun activities that build a bond of trust between pets and people.
  • Walk and exercise your dog regularly to keep it healthy and provide mental stimulation.
  • Avoid highly excitable games like wrestling or tug-of-war.
  • Use a leash in public to ensure you are able to control your dog.
  • Keep your dog healthy. Have your dog vaccinated against rabies and preventable infectious diseases. Parasite control and other health care are important because how your dog feels affects how it behaves.
  • Neuter your pet.
  • If you have a fenced yard, make sure the gates are secure.

How can you protect your family?

  • Be cautious around strange dogs, and treat your own pet with respect. Because children are the most common victims of dog bites, parents and caregivers should:
  • NEVER leave a baby or small child alone with a dog.
  • Be alert for potentially dangerous situations.
  • Teach their children – including toddlers – to be careful around pets. Children must learn not to approach strange dogs or try to pet dogs through fences. Teach children to ask permission from the dog's owner before petting the dog.

Useful Links

The following AVMA resources can help you learn more:
What you should know about dog bite prevention brochure
This informative brochure offers tips on how to avoid being bitten, as well as what to do if you are bitten by a dog. It also addresses what you need to do if your dog bites someone.
Backgrounder: The role of breed in dog bite risk and prevention
This backgrounder reviews and provides scientific context on dog breeds and their purported tendencies to bite.
A community approach to dog bite prevention(PDF)
The American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions has produced this report intended to help state and local leaders develop effective dog bite prevention programs in their communities.
The Blue Dog Parent Guide and CD
This innovative dog bite prevention program is designed to help parents and children safely interact with dogs both inside and outside their home. The program is geared toward children from 3 to 6 years old. It's the only dog bite educational tool scientifically proven to help young children learn behaviors that can keep them safe.
Bilingual Dog Bite Prevention activity/coloring bookBilingual Dog Bite Prevention activity/coloring book
Teach children about different ways to avoid dog bites, by educating them on how, or if, they should approach a dog. A creative tool for use all year, including during Dog Bite Prevention week in May.
What you should know about rabies
Rabies is a deadly disease that is transmitted to people through a bite. It is transmitted through the rabid animal's saliva. Rabies vaccinations for dogs are an excellent defense against this disease, as many times families are exposed to rabies after an unvaccinated pet dog is bitten by a rabid wild animal. This brochure educates on how to prevent rabies.


All information from AVMA. 

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Do Any Dogs Really Need Sweaters or Coats?


Q. How do I know if my dog needs a sweater or coat this winter?


A. I feel safe in saying that if you have a healthy, young Siberian Husky or Alaskan Malamute who’s acclimated to the cold and has the glorious coat common in the Northern breeds, you likely won’t have to invest in canine clothing for walks in the snow. In general, there are three kinds of dogs who benefit from the insulation provided by a sweater or coat, as well as the protection afforded by life as a pampered house pet:
  • Small dogs
  • Dogs who are elderly, chronically ill or both
  • Greyhounds, Whippets and dogs of a similar thin body type, especially those with short fur
What these dogs have in common is that they have a more difficult time generating and retaining enough body heat on their own. For these dogs, a little help keeping dry and warm is always a good thing. Though protection from the elements is the biggest reason to put clothes on dogs headed outside, it doesn't hurt to leave a sweater on these dogs inside if you're keeping the heat down to save energy and money.
If you have a dog with arthritis, protective clothing is just one thing you can do to make winters more comfortable. Pet-safe heated orthopedic beds are a great idea; you can also talk to your veterinarian about nutraceuticals, such as glucosamine and omega-3 oils that are clinically proven to ease joint pain. Other dogs may benefit additionally from the use of pain-control medication, typically nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs).
Even if your dog doesn't need a coat, having one certainly won’t hurt him. I know many people who put slickers on their pets before taking a walk in the rain or snow because it saves them the trouble of cleaning a wet dog at the door before coming inside, for example. Boots help keep things neater, too, and where de-icing solutions are used, they can protect your pet from licking toxic chemicals off his paws.

All information from VetStreet. 

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I Got a Puppy/Kitten for Christmas, Now What??

If you gave or received a puppy or kitten for Christmas you might be wondering what to do next as far as vaccinations and when to spay/neuter. Here at Animal General we recommend the following vaccine protocol:
Puppies-

These are based upon current AAHA & AAFP vaccination guidelines. Core vaccines are what every dog should get regardless of lifestyle. All non-core vaccines will be administered based on risk of exposure of that disease to the individual patient; therefore not all dogs will receive all of these vaccinations listed. Puppy boosters will be administered every three weeks beginning at six weeks of age. Every pediatric visit should include an exam and fecal analysis, with deworming as needed. Every adult annual visit should include an exam, heartworm test, fecal analysis, vaccines deemed appropriate by the veterinarian and any age appropriate blood testing.

Age                 Core Vaccines                                  Non-core Vaccines       
                  
6 wks              DA2PP     
                                                                                                    
9 wks              DA2PP                                              Bordetella                                         
                                                                                    Influenza     
              
12 wks            DA2PP                                              Leptospirosis           
                        Rabies                                               Influenza                 
                                                                                    Lyme         
             
15 wks            DA2PP                                              Leptospirosis                        
                                                                                    Lyme     
                     
6 mos                                                                         Bordetella 
                 
1 year             DA2PP                                              Bordetella                  
                        Rabies                                               Leptospirosis                        
                                                                                    Lyme                          
                                                                                    Influenza     


Kittens-        

These are based upon current AAHA & AAFP vaccination guidelines. Core vaccines are what every pet should receive, regardless of lifestyle. All non-core vaccines will be administered based on risk of exposure of that disease to the individual patient; therefore not all cats will receive all these vaccinations listed. Kitten boosters will be administered every three weeks beginning at six weeks of age. Every pediatric visit should include an exam and fecal analysis, with deworming as needed. Every adult annual visit should include an exam, FeLV/FIV test, fecal analysis and vaccines deemed appropriate by the veterinarian and any age appropriate blood testing.

Age                 Core Vaccines                                  Non-core Vaccines     
                    
6 wks              FVRCP          
                                                                                              
9 wks              FVRCP          
                                  
12 wks            FVRCP        
                        FeLV                                 
                        Rabies           
                     
15 wks            FVRCP          
                        FeLV              
                     
1 year             FVRCP                                               FeLV                             
                        Rabies          


We recommend having your pet spayed (females) or neutered (males) around six months of age but your veterinarian can provide an exact date when s/he feels your pet is old enough and healthy enough to undergo the anesthesia. Here at AGH we run blood work, place an IV catheter and administer fluids (to maintain hydration and blood pressure), and give pre-anesthetic sedation. After the surgery your pet is given two different pain injections and is kept one night for observation. We offer special pricing if you would like your cat to be declawed at the same time.    

If you have any questions about the above information or if you would like to schedule an appointment to have your pet seen by one of our outstanding veterinarians please call 706-568-4848 today!                         

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