Animal General Hospital

Making the decision to spay or neuter your pet means fewer pets—pets as sweet, loving, healthy, and deserving of companionship as your own—will be euthanized for lack of a home.

But just in case you need more information before making this important decision, here is the truth behind some commonly spread myths about spaying and neutering.

MYTH: It's better to have one litter before spaying a female pet.
FACT: Every litter counts.

Medical evidence indicates just the opposite. In fact, the evidence shows that females spayed before their first heat are typically healthier. Many veterinarians now sterilize dogs and cats as young as eight weeks of age. Check with your veterinarian about the appropriate time for these procedures.

MYTH: I want my children to experience the miracle of birth.
FACT: The miracle of birth is quickly overshadowed by the thousands of animals euthanized in animal shelters in communities all across the country.

Teach children that all life is precious by spaying and neutering your pets. 

MYTH: But my pet is a purebred.
FACT: So is at least one out of every four pets brought to animal shelters around the country. There are just too many dogs and cats—mixed breed and purebred. About half of all animals entering shelters are euthanized.

MYTH: I want my dog to be protective.
FACT:  It is a dog's natural instinct to protect home and family. A dog's personality is formed more by genetics and environment than by sex hormones.

MYTH: I don't want my male dog or cat to feel like less of a male.
FACT: Pets don't have any concept of sexual identity or ego. Neutering will not change a pet's basic personality. He doesn't suffer any kind of emotional reaction or identity crisis when neutered.
 

MYTH: My pet will get fat and lazy.

FACT: The truth is that most pets get fat and lazy because their owners feed them too much and don't give them enough exercise.

MYTH: But my dog (or cat) is so special, I want a puppy (or kitten) just like her.
FACT: Your pet's puppies or kittens have an unlikely chance of being a carbon copy of your pet. Even professional breeders cannot make this guarantee. There are shelter pets waiting for homes who are just as cute, smart, sweet, and loving as your own.

MYTH: I'll find good homes for all the puppies and kittens.
FACT: You may find homes for your pet's puppies and kittens. But you can only control what decisions you make with your own pet, not the decisions other people make with theirs. Your pet’s puppies and kittens, or their puppies or kittens, could end up in an animal shelter, as one of the many homeless pets in every community competing for a home. Will they be one of the lucky ones?

All information from the Humane Society of the United States.

Hepatitis:

This virus is spread by contact with urine, feces and other secretions from infected animals. The liver is the primary organ affected and death is possible is severe cases. 

Clinical signs include:

    Chronic form:

• Lethargy
• No Appetite

• Fever
• Bloody Diarrhea
• Vomiting Blood
• Refusal to Eat
• Painful Movement
• Clouding of Cornea (called Blue Eye)

Tick-Borne Disease

Lyme Disease:

The bacteria which causes Lyme disease in dogs and humans is carried by a specific tick species. Infected ticks, as small as the heads of a pin, may inhabit lawns and gardens, as well as fields and forests. Lyme disease can be difficult to diagnose because of the long incubation period and vague, arthritic, flu-like symptoms. As the disease progresses, Lyme-causing bacteria damage many different organs including the liver, heart, nervous system and kidneys. 

Clinical signs may include:

• Lameness
• Anorexia
• Depression
• Inflammation Leading to Vital Organ Dysfunction
• Fever
• Stiffness
• Joint Pain/Swelling 

Gastrointestinal Disease

Parvovirus:

This highly contagious and debilitating virus is spread through infected fecal material. It is a very hardy virus and can survive in the environment for months or years. In severe cases, it can lead to shock and death. Vaccination against parvovirus is extremely important for all dogs, 

Clinical signs may include:

• Severe Depression
• Loss of Appetite
• Vomiting
• High Fever
• Profuse Diarrhea

Contagious Respiratory Disease

Kennel Cough or Tracheobronchitis:

Several types of bacteria and viruses are known to cause infection and inflammation of the lungs and respiratory passages of dogs. The most prevalent are adenovirus type 2, parainfuenza virus and Bordetella bronchiseptica. Dogs exposed to high-population situations such as daycare, shelters, breeding facilities, boarding or the show circuit are at risk. These environments can increase stress and exposure to disease. 

Clinical signs may include:

• Harsh, Dry, Hacking Cough

Nervous System Disease

Distemper:

Vaccination against distemper virus is essential for all dogs. Nearly every dog will be exposed to distemper virus in its lifetime. In its final stages, distemper may cause convulsions. Death may occur one to three after infection. 

Clinical signs may include:

    Early clinical signs:

• Fever
• Loss of Appetite
• Listlessness
• Dry Cough
• Watery Discharge from Eyes and Nose (discharge becomes yellow and thick)
• Diarrhea

• Brain Involvement
• Head Shaking
• Chewing Movements
• Seizures
• Confusion

This is a fatal viral disease of all mammals including dogs, cats, livestock and humans. Infected wildlife and unvaccinated animals are the source of this virus. Because rabies is a significant health hazard, it is extremely important to vaccinate your pet. In may states and cities, rabies vaccines is required by law. 


All information is from a pamphlet from Boehringer Ingelheim and BeVaccineSMART.com

We have talked about flea and heartworm prevention and heartworms in cats but we haven't talked about heartworms in dogs. The following article from Vet Street should answer any questions you have about this preventable disease. 

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal condition that affects dogs, cats, and up to 30 other species of animals. It is caused by parasitic worms (heartworms) living in the major blood vessels of the lungs and, occasionally, in the heart. These worms are transmitted (as microscopic larvae) through the bite of an infected mosquito. The scientific name for the heartworm parasite is Dirofilaria immitis.

Heartworms are spread through the bite of a mosquito, and dogs increase the risk of infection for other dogs, cats and other animals. When a mosquito bites an infected dog it draws blood that contains immature heartworms (called microfilariae [pronounced micro-fill-air-ee-ay]). These microfilariae mature inside the mosquito to become infective larvae. When the mosquito eventually bites another dog or a cat, the larvae enter the new host. In dogs, these larvae often mature to become adult heartworms, which produce more microfilariae and continue the heartworm’s life cycle.

Heartworm disease can cause a variety of medical problems affecting the lungs, heart, liver, and/or kidneys. Severe complications can lead to death. Although a safe and effective treatment is available, it can be a costly and complicated process depending on how long the dog has been infected and how severe the infection is.

Despite the fact that heartworm disease is virtually 100 percent preventable, many dogs are diagnosed with it each year. The American Heartworm Society (AHS) estimates that one million dogs in the United States have heartworm disease today, and that this number may be rising.

Some dogs may show no signs of infection. However, depending on the number of worms and the duration of infection, dogs may begin to show the following clinical signs:

Apart from clinical signs, heartworm disease can be diagnosed using laboratory tests that check the dog’s blood for evidence of infection. Additional testing, including a CBC (complete blood cell count), blood chemistry panel, and urinalysis may be recommended for a heartworm positive pet to help assess the severity of the disease. Sometimes evidence of heartworms can be seen on ultrasound images or radiographs (X-rays) of the heart and lungs.

Dogs of any breed can become infected with heartworms.

If infection is detected early enough, heartworm disease can be treated before permanent damage to the heart, lungs, and/or blood vessels occurs. However, if the infection has been present for a long time or consists of a large number of worms, the risk of complications increases. In these cases, treatment can be more expensive and complicated and dogs may take many months to recover from the infection.

Standard treatment of heartworm disease in dogs involves administering a series of injections with a medication that kills the heartworms. Surgical removal of the worms may be recommended in some cases.

Unfortunately, untreated heartworm disease can be fatal.

The Australian Terrier is a happy dog by nature, known for his clever sense of humor and his affection for people. The shaggy-coated Australian — about 15 pounds of spunk in all – is an independent, somewhat stubborn breed. He is a tireless ratter and excellent watchdog with an easy-care coat that sheds little.

 The cute factor of the Australian Terrier helps him to worm his way into many a heart before owner knows just how clever and active a little dog he is. For the people who love this breed, the attitude of this Down Under original becomes even more appealing over time. Live with an Australian Terrier and you’ll need a sense of humor since he finds typical terrier hobbies — digging, barking, and terrorizing the family cat — extremely amusing. With proper guidance and an owner who understands that “small” doesn’t mean “mellow,” the Australian can fit into many kinds of families and homes from city loft to country acreage.

As with virtually all terriers, consistent training should start young to channel this breed’s inquisitive nature and on-the-go attitude into activities that won’t involve noise or destructiveness. The American Kennel Club’s Earthdog events offer one such possibility; agility or other active sports are others.

A bored Australian Terrier with energy to burn will create his own competitive event, known as “Just how many holes can I dig in the backyard before they notice?” Or another perennial favorite: “Exactly how high a fence can one bored determined dog jump anyway?”

 The Australian Terrier is the perfect size for apartment or condo living, but only if you can train him to control his barking or be there to keep it to a low roar. These little dogs are very alert watchdogs or, as the neighbors would describe it, nuisance barkers.

Australian Terriers are not a great choice if you have cats, and they don’t tend to get along with other dogs, particularly if both are males. Marking behavior can also be a problem, and belly bands to block the pee from hitting the furniture are not uncommon in these confident little leg-lifters.

While the show dogs get more careful grooming, pet Australian Terriers have easy-care coats in a variety of colors; an occasional bath and weekly combing or brushing to keep shedding to a minimum are all that’s necessary. Not a backyard dog by any means, the Australian Terrier needs to live indoors as a member of the family.

All info from Vet Street.

With her built-in grooming tools (tongue and teeth, of course), your fastidious feline is well-equipped to tackle her own haircare needs. But if she is very dirty or gets into something sticky or smelly, you may need to give her a bath. Read the following tips before you begin to ensure minimal stress and maximum efficiency.

1. Perfect timing: Schedule baths when your cat’s at her most mellow. A play session with a cat dancer or other toy of choice can help tire out even the friskiest of felines. 

2. Clip, snip: For your own protection, ASPCA experts recommend trimming Fluffy’s claws before bathing. 

3. The brush-off: Next, give your cat a good brushing to remove any loose hair and mats. Now’s also a good time to gently place some cotton in her ears to keep the water out. 

4. Stand firm: Place a rubber bath mat in the sink or tub where you’ll be bathing your kitty so she doesn't slip. Fill with three to four inches of lukewarm (not hot, please!) water. 

5. Just add water: Use a hand-held spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes and nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup works great. 

6. Lather up: Gently massage your pet with a solution of one part cat shampoo (human shampoo can dry out her skin) to five parts water, working from head to tail, in the direction of hair growth. Take care to avoid the face, ears and eyes. 

7. All clear: Thoroughly rinse the shampoo off your cat with a spray hose or pitcher; again, be sure the water is lukewarm. Take good care that all residue has been removed, as it can irritate the skin and act as a magnet for dirt. 

8. About face: Use a washcloth to carefully wipe your pet’s face. Plain water is fine unless her face is very dirty—in which case, we recommend using an extra-diluted solution of shampoo, being very cautious around her ears and eyes. 

9. Dry idea: You’re almost there! Wrap your cat in a large towel and dry her with it in a warm place, away from drafts. If your kitty doesn't mind the noise, you can use a blow dryer—on the lowest heat setting. And please note, if your pet has long hair, you may need to carefully untangle her fur with a wide-toothed comb. 

10. Good girl!: Your little bathing beauty deserves endless praise—and her favorite treat—after all this! And with such a happy ending, next time she may find that bath time isn't so bad.

All info from the ASPCA. 

A. Keeping your cat indoors can increase his life span, help protect him from infectious diseases and parasites, and shelter him from a gamut of other outdoor hazards, including predators, cars, toxins and the risk of being lost or stolen. With proper planning and some simple training, you can prevent door dashing and provide a stimulating inside environment for your cat.

Replace Dashing with Perching

One of the easiest ways to stop door dashing is to train your cat to station on a perch. Start by teaching him to follow a target, such as a wooden spoon, with his nose. Hold the target out in front of his nose and mark any movement at all toward the target with a verbal “good” or a click; immediately reward with a treat or toy. Work toward getting your cat to touch his nose to the end of the target.

Over time, move the target further distances and over small obstacles, such as a cat bed or the couch. Eventually, the target stick can be brought up to the perching area for your cat to follow. Some cats will automatically come to your hand if you move your fingers around, tapping the surface of the perch while using an excited voice, but you can also use a feather toy to lure your cat onto the perch if needed.    

Once your cat is on the perch, reward him for laying down or sitting. Step a small distance away and if he stays in place, reward him on the perch. If he jumps off the perch, move a shorter distance next time. Remember to keep all training sessions short to keep your feline interested. 

Once your cat readily follows the target to his station and stays in place, add a word such as “place” one to two seconds before you present the target. Adding the verbal command teaches your cat to go to his perch solely in response to the word. Fade your target by presenting it further away from the perch or by making it smaller. Once your cat performs the behavior entirely in response to the verbal command, gradually move yourself further away from the perch when you give the cue. Practice until your cat responds, even when you are standing next to the door.

Next, have your cat practice staying on the perch while the door opens. At first, you may only turn the knob slightly, without actually opening the door. Reward him for staying in place. Then open the door a crack and reward him for staying. Work up to having your cat stay on his perch even when the door is fully opened. If your cat jumps off his perch, shut the door immediately, reset him on the perch and try again. 

Once your cat jumps to his perch on cue and waits while you open the door, it’s time to practice the behavior as you come from outside to inside. Ask your cat to station and open the door, reward your cat on the perch with a treat, pet or toy as you are walking out, and then leave temporarily. When you come back, ask your cat to station as soon as you crack the door open. It may be helpful to have someone inside to guide your cat, as sometimes the jump from asking a cat to station when you’re inside to asking him to do the same when you’re on the other side of the door can be a big leap. Your goal is to have your cat target his area both when you leave and when you return. Be sure to practice with all members of your family. 

Another way to keep your cat from dashing for the open door is to bring the excitement of the outdoors inside. Provide your cat with ample opportunities for exploration and play; think vertically in terms of cat perches, cat trees or even cat shelving to expand his space without having to increase the square footage of your house. Give your cat a variety of places to venture as well, such as cat tunnels, covered beds or even simple cardboard boxes. 

Cats spend a great deal of their waking time in pursuit of food, which is often distributed daily in the food bowl. Add spice to your cat’s life by hiding 10 percent of his daily ration in random places around your house (including on his perches) for him to find. Place treats or kibble in food puzzles, or freeze chunks of meat, such as tuna, in an ice cube tray with water to make meals and snacks a little more work. Grow cat-safe house plants, which can be found at specialty pet stores, to provide your cat with an opportunity to graze during the day. Single-cat homes with a cat-friendly feline may also benefit from adding a second cat to provide companionship.

A perch mounted on a windowsill allows your cat to sun himself and watch outdoor activity, such as birds, and gives him a small taste of the outdoors while keeping him safely contained. A Catio, which is netting and perches that allow your cat to be outdoors while safely held inside, serves the same purpose. Cat fencing gives your cat freedom to roam while keeping him safe from cars; however, he's still vulnerable to predators, such as large birds of prey or other cats (and the diseases they carry), so there is a risk involved.   

Finally, be sure to microchip your cat, which gives you the best chance of recovering him should he ever take advantage of an open door and escape. 

All information from Vet Street. 

PetSide.com asked three of their Advisory Board members: Do you think it's OK to let pets sleep in the bed?

Mike Arms, President Helen Woodward Animal Center:  Not only do I think it’s ok, but to be honest, my pets allow me to sleep in the bed with them.

Nancy Taylor, President and CEO, Bideawee: Letting a pet sleep in the bed is really a personal choice, but there are things that any pet partner should consider before making that decision. It’s important to know that once you start allowing your dog or cat to sleep in the bed, they begin to expect it.  It’s easy to understand that it would feel bad to a pet to be in a nice cozy human bed one week, and then the next week to be on the floor. Even if it's a dog or cat bed, most pets know the difference!

If you are even thinking about letting your animal in your bed, think about the other unwanted pets that you might be letting in the bed as well. Especially if you have a dog or cat that goes outside, other animals may make their way into your bed (fleas or ticks for example). Make sure your dog or cat has the proper flea and tick medication to keep this under control. And cleaning your dog with a wipe when coming inside can also help.

Finally, it is a good idea to make sure that your pet wants to “share” the bed with you, not take it over. There are many dogs that will sleep in the owner’s bed, and when the unsuspecting person gets up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom, the dog does not let him or her back in. It is important to "check in" with your dog and practice giving the command "up" (allowing him to jump on the bed) and "off" (telling him to get off the bed). If your dog listens without issue to both commands, then you should be ok. If he does not, then training may be in order before allowing this privilege, as safety is the most important thing. Allowing your pet into bed is a personal decision. However, careful consideration should be made before doing this, as we know that it is hard to change behavior once it is practiced.

Marcie Campion, Ph.D., Scientific Relations Manager, Iams Company: Our pets are part of our family and it’s fine to share a bed with them as long as it’s safe and comfortable for everyone.

First, pets should be current on their vaccinations and free of parasites like ticks, fleas and worms that can transmit diseases to humans. If you have small pets, make sure they can’t roll off the bed or get rolled on, which could result in a broken bone or suffocation. Sometimes “doggy breath” can be an issue too!

Be sure to feed your pet a food that can help reduce tartar buildup and keep their teeth and gums healthy, like Eukanuba dog food with DentaDefense. A premium diet will also help keep your pet at a healthy weight, making it easier for them to get on the bed and help minimize snoring. If your pet needs to lose a few pounds, your veterinarian can assess their weight and recommend a reduced fat and calorie diet like Iams Weight Control. These simple guidelines will help you and your pet get a good night’s sleep, but you’ll have to talk to someone else about your spouse’s snoring.

All information from PetSide.