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Want Happier, Healthier Cats and Dogs? Use Food Puzzles

9:12 AM | Labels: , ,


The majority of dogs and cats these days are born retired. Forget working to round up sheep or chase mice, our pets live in homes where nothing is expected of them except companionship. It may seem as if our pets have it made, but without something to do pets get bored, lonely, and destructive, and sedentary pets get obese and sick.
But it doesn't have to be that way. There’s an easy answer for your pet to be more fit and less bored: food puzzles.

Putting The Brain to Work to Find Food

Food puzzles, or enrichment toys, come in many shapes, sizes, and prices. You can even make your own. What they all have in common is that they require an animal to exercise his mind and body before being rewarded with a small bit of food. This cuts into the time he could be getting into trouble and helps him maintain a healthy weight.

Favorite Food Puzzles

Food puzzles can be super simple or very sophisticated. Here are some that are often recommended by pet-care experts.
1. Homemade Challenge - simple scattering technique. This is easiest way to make your pet work for dinner. Take your dog’s kibble and scatter it in the grass, then let her use her nose to find it. For cats, separate their meals into tiny portions and hide the bowls in places where they’ll have to climb and jump to find them.
2. The Kong. We are often asked for ways to keep puppies and dogs out of trouble when they need to be left alone. The answer: A Kong toy stuffed with food treats. These toys have long been popular since they’re so durable, and they're hollow in middle, so they're easy to stuff with treats. You can use a rawhide as a “fuse," placing it right down the middle of the hollow section of the Kong with a couple inches sticking out. Then, fill the rest of the cavity with kibble mixed with canned food or peanut butter. You can also freeze it for a longer lasting treat.
3. Other Toys for canine Einsteins. Among the leaders in the enrichment movement (and in offering products designed by top trainers and behaviorists) is Premier. The company’s Busy Buddy line is one pets love. And Sweden’s Nina Ottosson designs puzzles that really put a pet’s mind to the test. She makes interactive toys and treat puzzles for dogs, cats, and other animals, including those that require pets to move blocks, spin discs, and work through layers. Ottosson's toys used to be hard to find, but they're easy to find online and in boutique pet-stores -- even Amazon carries them now. 
What Pets Are They Best For?
Not all pets are equally proficient at food puzzles. Take Willy and Bruce for example. Bruce rips through the layers of the Ottosson Tornado and then looks up to see what the next challenge will be. Willy, on the other hand, is still figuring out that there may be food inside. Either way, the dogs are entertained and so are we.
Will your pet ace the test? Go to your local pet retailer to check out the latest in food puzzles or just use your imagination (and some kibble) to get started. A happier, healthier pet will soon be yours.

All information from VetStreet.

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5 Dangerous Places Where Your Indoor Cat Can Hide

8:21 AM | Labels: , ,

Cats can get into all kinds of trouble even in the safety of your own home. They can get tangled in the cords of curtains and blinds, they can chew on electric wires, and they can even bring down entire trays full of drying dishes. But with their desire to seek out small, dark spots, they can get into potentially fatal trouble. Here are five hazards for indoor cats.



1. The washing machine and dryer

If you have laundry equipment in your house, it’s a prime target for curious cats looking for a snug spot for a nap. Because front-loading washing machines need to be kept open in order to avoid mold growth, this is a particular hazard. In order to keep your kitty safe, check inside your washing machine and dryer before throwing clothes in and starting a load of laundry. If possible, keep the door to your laundry room closed.

2. The oven
If you leave your oven open even a crack after you’ve finished baking your favorite meal, food-motivated cats will probably find a way to sneak inside, risking burns and even entrapment in search of a tasty morsel.

3. The refrigerator
It’s astonishingly easy for a cat to sneak past you and hop in the fridge while you’re putting food on the counter. If the seal on your fridge door is dirty or worn, a cat could find a way to open that door and hop inside -- and once the door closes, he may not be able to open it again.

4. The cleaning-equipment cabinet

Like small children, cats just have to get into everything, and the stuff you use to clean your house is just as poisonous to cats as it is to kids. To prevent toxic tragedy, consider installing childproof latches on your cabinets that contain cleaning products and other hazardous materials.

5. Unfinished construction

If you’re remodeling your home, be sure your cat can’t get into the work area. I’ve known more than one cat that crawled behind wall board or into exposed roof rafters and curled up in a nice soft bed of insulation, only to find that they had been trapped once the renovations were finished.
If your cat goes missing indoors, look in any of these enclosed locations first. Then move on to closets and bureaus, and behind and under furniture.
Have your cats ever gotten themselves stuck in strange places inside your home? Please share your story in the comments.

All information from Catster. 

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15 Things to Know Before Volunteering at an Animal Shelter

9:14 AM | Labels: , , ,


Volunteering at an animal shelter can be a rewarding experience with many benefits. It also helps shelters that are low on labor continue their endless care of animals.
Shelters are not all created equal, and volunteering can be very different from one city to the next. If you’re thinking of helping out at your local shelter, there are some things you need to know before grabbing your volunteer T-shirt and diving straight in.
 1. Time Commitment
Shelters may have a set schedule for their volunteers, so you might not be able to sign up for just an event or pop in when you have a free day. There might also be a minimum amount of hours to meet to keep your volunteer title, so always ask up front what’s expected of you. 

2. Training Requirements

You may be required to complete a training program or class before you can work at the shelter. Training may be given for each individual or held only once per month. Ask when the next training will be available and how long it will take.

3. Tasks Involved
This item is particularly important. What you may end up doing can be far from what you imagine.
Are you allergic to cats but not dogs, or vice versa? Do you detest poop but are happy to pass out fliers or answer the phones? There are many tasks involved for the shelter to keep running, so ask what is available and see which tasks you prefer to tackle.

4. Animal Types and Sizes

Check to see what types of animals are housed or taken in at the shelter before signing up. Most shelters have cats and dogs, but some may take in birds, rats or snakes. If you have an aversion to any type of animal, ask which ones you will be expected to assist.
Some shelters have separate buildings for cats and dogs. One volunteer was fearful of large dogs, but she was happy to help maintain the cat cottage for hours each day. With any luck, your shelter will have something that fits your preferences perfectly.

5. Weather Conditions

Indoor areas are normally climate-controlled, but you may have to work in outdoor areas or runs for the animals. Extreme heat or cold may be possible depending on your location, so be prepared to work with the elements or request indoor-only work.

6. Accident and Injury Policy

You may be volunteering at your own risk. Some facilities may require you to sign a waiver so that they will not be held liable if you are injured or involved in an accident. If this is a major concern for you, ask about it in advance.
7. Equipment Use
Different types of equipment may be required for certain jobs. Ask about the tools you will need to perform for your volunteering duties in case it’s something unexpected. Office work uses pretty standard equipment, but you might need to use pressure washers or construction equipment.

8. Noise Level

Even though shelters may take excellent care of their animals, the facility can be ear splitting with nonstop barking at times. The cat cottage is much quieter, but if noise is a concern you might want to ask where you will be working and with which animals. Ear plugs are not an unusual sight.

9. Scared Animals

Not every animal at the shelter is used to being there or enjoys their surroundings, and they may be just as scared of you as you are of them. As you get to know the animals, they can become more comfortable around you. If you are unsure about approaching an animal, ask a shelter employee for assistance first. Accidents can and do happen, and sometimes a scratch or bite is just a very scared animal’s way of trying to protect itself.

10. Applications

Shelters may require you to complete a paper or online application before you can be considered for volunteer work. These applications can vary greatly; some may ask for basic information such as your address or phone number, while others may require employment history, references and more. Ask for a sample application if it’s required, and feel free to ask questions about the information they are requesting.

11. Allergies

Even if your duties restrict you to an office, being inside an animal shelter is a sure bet that you will come into contact with pet hair and dander. This shouldn't deter you, though; there are plenty of ways you can help the shelter without having to be inside. Graphic design, passing out handbills, volunteering at a fundraiser and more are all great ways to get involved without the fur flying by your nose.

12. Volunteer Overload

Shelters can be overflowing with volunteers sometimes, and they may not need or want to take on additional volunteers. Don’t fret. Check around at other shelters or call rescue organizations to see if they can use some help. This could be anything from working with the animals to doing graphic design or helping them advertise available animals for adoption.

13. Shelter Expectations

If you haven’t been to your local shelter yet, stop by and ask for a tour. Shelters are operated differently; some may resemble a clinic or zoo while others are underfunded and understaffed. If your priority is helping a no-kill shelter, ask if they euthanize animals before you sign up.
Many shelters offer veterinary services at their locations, and those will involve euthanasia for ill pets. The type of euthanasia mentioned previously refers to shelters that euthanize animals due to overcrowding. Unfortunately, many places still do this across the country, so ask up front if it’s a sticky point for you.

14. Animal Person May Not Equal a People Person

Some people work with animals because they prefer their company over people. In short, don’t take offense if someone seems a little quiet or shy. You have a common interest at heart, and talking about animals is a sure way to strike up a conversation.

15. Heartbreak

If you volunteer at a kill shelter, it can be heartbreaking to see animals you have come to know and love be taken for euthanasia. Even in a no-kill shelter it’s easy to get attached to the animals and miss them once they are adopted. 
You will also see animals in pain, dealing with injuries, trying to recover from abuse or even being returned after being adopted. These are normal shelter occurrences that will happen.


All information from Pets Adviser.   

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A Safe Halloween

8:29 AM | Labels: , , ,

Halloween can be a frightening time for pet owners across the country. It can be scary for our furry friends too. We encourage pet owners to protect their four-legged family members this Halloween by being mindful of their F.E.A.R. – food, environment, attire, and recovery.

Food
Halloween means candy and tasty treats are plentiful and easily accessible to young children and pets. Candy, especially chocolate, is toxic to animals and can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart disturbances, and even death. Although grapes and raisins are a healthy alternative snack for humans, they can be potentially deadly for dogs. These fruits contain an unknown toxin that can damage dogs’ kidneys and cause kidney failure.

Candy wrappers can also cause health problems. Animals may eat the wrapper, causing obstruction or irritation to the pet’s digestive system. Candy and wrappers should be kept out of pets’ reach and young children should be taught not to share Halloween goodies with their pet. Seasonal foods such as pumpkins and corn may cause minor stomach irritation; however, they are relatively safe for Fluffy and Fido. Pumpkin seeds may cause digestive system obstruction if consumed by smaller animals.

Environment

Due to the increased foot traffic and commotion in your neighborhood, outdoor pets should be kept indoors during the days surrounding Halloween. Unsupervised outdoor animals are susceptible to stress, inhumane practical jokes or theft. Providing a safe, stress free environment reduces the probability of your beloved friend injuring himself or others. Loud and excessive noise created by trick-or-treaters can frighten your cat or dog. Animals should be kept away from the door and out of hearing range of a constantly ringing doorbell and excited children. Fluffy or Fido should be put in a room where they will not be disturbed by noise and activity. A frightened or upset pet may run out the door at the first opportunity and could harm the children in its way.

Be sure decorations are safe from the paws and teeth of curious pets. Crepe paper streamers, fake cobwebs, glow sticks, plastic spiders and cardboard wall hangings can easily be chewed and swallowed, damaging your pet’s digestive tract. Animals can also tip over the candle in a jack-o-lantern and burn themselves or start a fire. Keep decorations out of animals’ reach, and maintain supervision if they play nearby.
Attire
Transforming your pet into a superhero, witch, ghost, or goblin can be a stressful and unpleasant experience. Some animals love to dress up, but others dread it. If your furry friend doesn’t mind dressing up, make sure that you select a costume that doesn’t restrict his normal movements, breathing or vision. Costumes that interfere with these things can cause ligament or joint injuries, and animals are more likely to bite if their vision is impaired. Pets are better off left at home during trick-or-treating excursions. However, if they do tag along, it is best to keep them on a very short leash and harness to keep them from fighting with other animals, eating the treats, becoming victims of practical jokes – as black cats often do – or biting strangers they encounter.

Recovery

It is important to have a plan if your pet becomes sick, injured or lost this Halloween season. Since time is critical during any unfortunate incident, pet parents should always have contact information for their veterinarian and local animal shelters easily accessible. Also, pet owners need to be aware that not all veterinarians are available 24 hours. It is also important to update your pet’s identification tags and micro chip information each time you move or change phone numbers so that current contact information is always available on your pet. 

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How to Calculate a Dog's Age

8:34 AM | Labels: ,

A popular misconception is that dogs age 7 years for each calendar year. In fact, canine aging is much more rapid during the first 2 years of a dog's life. After the first 2 years the ratio settles down to 5 to 1 for small and medium breeds. For large breeds the rate is 6 to 1, and for giant breeds the rate is 7 to 1. Thus, at 10 years of age a Great Dane would be 80 years old while a pug would only be 64.

How to Tell a Dog's Age

If you've taken in a dog whose age is unknown, there are some ways to determine his age. Here are some things vets check to get a general sense of how old a dog is:
The Teeth: Dogs usually have a set of permanent teeth by their seventh month, so if you've come across a dog with clean pearly whites, he is likely a year old or thereabouts. Yellowing on a dog's back teeth may put the dog between one and two years of age, while tartar build-up at a minimal level could mean you have a dog between 3 and 5. Missing teeth or severe wear usually means the dog is a senior and could use some special dental care.
Muscle Tone: Younger dogs are more likely to have some muscle definition from their higher activity level. Older dogs are usually either a tad bonier or a little fatter from decreased activity.
The Coat: A younger dog usually has a soft, fine coat, whereas an older dog tends to have thicker, coarser (and sometimes oilier) fur. A senior dog may display grays or patches of white, particularly around the snout.
The Eyes: Bright, clear eyes without tearing or discharge are common in younger dogs. Cloudy or opaque eyes may mean an older dog.
Use this chart to calculate your dog's age: (click to enlarge)



Old Age in Dogs
The age at which a dog can be considered elderly varies widely among models. In general, the larger the dog, the more quickly it declines. For instance, a Great Dane could be considered "senior" at age 5, while a smaller toy poodle would still be spry at twice that age. Remember, however, that just because a dog is chronologically old doesn't mean that an endless series of malfunctions is in store. In many cases an elderly dog can enjoy many healthy, active, pain-free years.
One of the best ways to prolong the life and improve the functions of an elderly dog is to carefully regulate its fuel intake. Older dogs exercise less and thus need fewer calories. And since age reduces their ability to digest and absorb nutrients, high-quality food specifically formulated for their needs is a necessity. Excessive amounts of protein, phosphorus, and sodium can aggravate kidney and heart problems, so most such foods contain smaller amounts of higher-quality protein, along with reduced quantities of other elements. Levels of vitamins, zinc, fatty acids, and fiber, however, are increased.

All information from Dogster. 

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Eliminate the 10 Biggest Pet Threats in Your Home

8:55 AM | Labels: , , ,


In many ways, our pets are like little children—curious, adventurous, and sometimes even mischievous. The difference is, we wouldn't leave our kids home alone all day, the way we do our pets.



10. PAINT

Adults know it's a bad idea to eat paint, but pets don't always get the reasoning behind passing up the chance to tussle with a paint can. It's hard to know exactly what ingredients are used in paint blends, but it's best for your pet and your family to choose no-VOC blends like Yolo Colorhouse. Avoid products that make "antimicrobial" or "mildew fighting" claims—these could contain toxic chemicals linked to thyroid damage. When you're finished painting, store your paint in a detached garage or building—even with the lid closed tightly, fumes still seep out.

For more information on other sources of pet poisoning, including a plant list, visit the ASPCA Poison Control Center website. If you suspect your animal may have ingested a poisonous substance, call the Poison Control Center right away at (888) 426-4435 or contact your vet.



9. LAWN CHEMICALS

The health impacts of pets coming into contact with chemical weed and bug killers could be immediate or they could take years to surface. A 2012 study published in Environmental Health found dogs with malignant lymphoma were 70 more likely to live in a home where professionals applied chemical lawn treatments. Dogs with the serious malignancy were also 170 percent more likely to come from homes in which owners used chemical insecticides to combat pests inside of the home.

8. GLOW JEWELRY

Glow jewelry isn't generally lethal to pets, but cats' tendency to bite into those glow-in-the-dark bracelets and necklaces often leads to panic situations at home. The taste is so bad, cats will drool and race around the house, trying to run away from the terrible taste. If this happens, try to rinse out the cat's mouth, and give it a tasty pet treat to eat to get rid of the bad flavor.

7. RODENTICIDES

Your quest to kill vermin seeking shelter in your home during colder months could cut short your pet's life because certain mouse baits can cause internal bleeding of dogs and cats.


6. CLEANING SUPPLIES

Eating or inhaling cleaning supplies and laundry room products can harm your pet. Furthermore, harsh cleaners are bad for you, too. 

5. CERTAIN FLEA AND TICK PRODUCTS

Insecticide poisonings resulted in nearly 30,000 calls to the Poison Control Center in 2010, and a common problem involved using flea and tick products on the wrong species.

4. LILIES 

You've probably heard that poinsettias don't belong in homes with cats, and the plants could indeed cause some discomfort, although ASPCA says the toxicity threat is generally exaggerated. Another common plant is much more dangerous. A household with a cat should never have a lily in it, ever. Cats are attracted to the greenery, but munching on a lily-containing bouquet could lead to kidney failure. 


3. XYLITOL

Xyli-what? You probably have this substance in your house without even realizing it. It's a sugar alcohol used in gum and toothpaste, and as a sweetener in other products. You can even buy it in powder form for baking. It's great for people because it doesn't cause a spike in blood sugar, and has been shown to reduce cavities. However, xylitol is toxic to dogs, who could experience a dangerous crash in blood pressure if they eat it. The sweetener is also linked to seizures and liver failure in dogs. Keep your gum, toothpaste, and kitchen sweeteners of all sorts in cabinets to avoid an unsweet disaster for your pooch,

2. GRAPES, RAISINS AND OTHER HUMAN FOODS

It's been pretty well publicized that chocolate can be fatal to dogs, particularly dark and baking chocolate. In fact, the ASPCA's poison hotline receives about 21 calls a day on the matter.

Chocolate goodies contain substances called methylxanthines, which in dogs can lead to hyperactivity, excessive thirst and urination, seizures, and even death. Other people food for your pets to avoid includes grapes, raisins, and avocadoes. Instead of feeding your pooch table scraps, make healthy, homemade pet treats.





1. PEOPLE PILLS

For the last four years, the primary reason for calls to animal poison hotlines is that a pet has gotten into its owner's medication. A dropped pill on the floor could seem like playtime for a pet, and some pill coatings even attract pets, leaving them gnawing on medicine bottles and packets. In 2011, 26 percent of calls to the poison hotline involved pets eating over-the-counter and prescription people meds.

Pets eating heart medication and ADHD drugs caused the most calls, but all human drugs could harm your animal, including non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs like aspirin and ibuprofen), antidepressants, acetaminophohen, cancer drugs, decongestants and other drugs.

To prevent this, keep all meds, creams, vitamins, and supplements in a cabinet, and when it's time to take your medicine, go into a room without your pets and close the door—that way if you drop a pill, they can't lap it up. Also note: It's never a good idea to give your pets people medicine because even tiny amounts that are harmless to us could harm or kill them.


All information from PawNation.

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How to Give Your Cat a Bath

8:23 AM | Labels: , ,

Whether your cat had a run-in with a skunk or you’re simply trying to curb the level of dander in your house, a scrub down may be just what your cat requires. See our step-by-step instructions for a safe and low-stress bathing experience.

Have a battle plan sketched out so that you can get your cat in and out of the bath as quickly as possible.
1. Anticipate how your cat might react to a bath. We understand that many, if not most, cats will avoid a dip in the water at nearly any cost. If you’re worried about your cat resisting violently, it’s always a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about how to approach this stressful situation. Your vet should be able to offer a few behavioral recommendations and/or even medications to help put your cat at ease.
2. Do advance grooming work. If possible, trim your cat’s nails before a bath to help reduce the number of scratches your forearms endure. Give the cat a good brushing before bath time to remove the loose and matted fur.
3. Pick your location. We recommend using a bathtub or sink equipped with a handheld spray nozzle to assist in the washing and rinsing of your cat.
4. Line up the proper tools and equipment. By the bathtub or sink have your supplies ready: 
  • Shampoo that is appropriate for your cat’s age and coat. Check online or at your local pet retailer for a formula that suits your grooming needs.
  • Any medicines that you are applying to the cat.
  • A washcloth for cleaning your cat’s face and head.
  • A soft towel to dry your cat.
  • Clothing that protects your arms from scratches/biting. We really can’t emphasize this enough!
5. Enlist an assistant cat wrangler. Sometimes two hands isn’t enough when dealing with four paws so have a friend with you to help soothe or restrain your cat during the washing or rinsing.

The Bath

Once you’ve gathered your materials and located a willing helper, it’s time to bathe this kitty.
1. Prepare the water. Before picking up the cat, make sure you have the lukewarm water running. If you don’t have access to a spray nozzle, fill your sink or tub with 3 to 5 inches of lukewarm water. Test the water with your hand to ensure that it’s not too hot or cold.
2. Put your cat in the tub. Gently but surely wet his or her fur using either with spray nozzle or your washcloth. Be careful to avoid splashing water in your cat’s eyes, ears, or nose.
3. Massage the shampoo into your cat’s fur.  Follow the directions listed on the label for application of the soap or medicine. Once again, carefully avoid your cat’s eyes, ears, and nose. Use your washcloth to gently wash your cat’s face and head.
4. Rinse the shampoo out of your kitty’s fur. This is the step in which a spray nozzle brings a clear advantage as you can easily move it around the cat’s body. If you’re not using a spray nozzle, use your wet washcloth to rinse the fur, refilling the sink or tub with lukewarm water until you’ve washed all of the shampoo from your cat’s coat.
5. Check for any soapy spots you may have missed. Shampoo left in the fur may cause skin irritation, or your cat may get  from licking the shampoo off. Do a careful check under your cat’s chin, it’s feet, under its abdomen, etc.
6. Dry your cat. Use your soft towel to dry his or her fur. If your cat will tolerate it, a hairdryer on a low-heat setting can speed the process.
And then consider giving your pet -- and yourself -- a treat. You both deserve it.

All information from VetStreet. 

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