Animal General Hospital

It's generally best to set up the tree so your cat can't get to it at all. With dogs, you can usually block off a tree with a fold-up children’s play yard or a canine exercise pen, but a normal cat will laugh at so feeble an attempt to contain him. Instead, set up the tree in a room with doors you can close, choosing, say, a formal living room over a more open family room, so it's easy to deny access to the tree when you’re not around. You could also try making a “moat” of foil around the tree – cats hate walking on the stuff — but that may understandably not appeal to you as part of your holiday decor.

Work to burn off your cat's excess energy away from the tree, such as in interactive play with a cat “fishing” toy or a laser pointer. Even young cats spend most of their lives asleep, and if you can occupy some of their awake time with active play they’ll have less interest in bothering the tree. The same goes for food puzzles: The more time your cat spends working for his food, the less time he'll be busy elsewhere.

Scaring your cat away from the tree is not a good solution, though. I don't like cat-control products that emit a shock or high-pitched noise for pets who step across boundaries, in part because cats generally react poorly to that kind of management. Stressed cats are more prone to illness and behavior problems such as litterbox avoidance, which means you could possibly “solve” a short-term problem and end up instead with a longer-term issue. Not good!

If you absolutely cannot make any of these solutions work for you, you can always set your cat up with food, water, a litterbox, cat climbing tower and toys in a bedroom away from the tree for the duration of the holiday season. As long as you spend time with him, he’ll be just fine there until it’s time to take down the decorations.

You may have to worry about kitty's interest in the tree for only a year or two, since climbing the Christmas tree is a behavior more commonly seen in kittens and young cats, not more sedate older pets. In Christmas Future, you may look back with nostalgia on the crazy, young tree-climbing thing your cat once was.

All information from Vet Street.  

All information from Pet MD. 

The canine parvovirus (CPV) infection is a highly contagious viral illness that affects dogs. The virus manifests itself in two different forms. The more common form is the intestinal form, which is characterized by vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and lack of appetite (anorexia). The less common form is the cardiac form, which attacks the heart muscles of very young puppies, often leading to death. The majority of cases are seen in puppies that are between six weeks and six months old. The incidence of canine parvovirus infections has been reduced radically by early vaccination in young puppies.

The major symptoms associated with the intestinal form of a canine parvovirus infection include severe, bloody diarrhea, lethargy, anorexia, fever, vomiting, and severe weight loss. The intestinal form of CPV affects the body's ability to absorb nutrients, and an affected animal will quickly become dehydrated and weak from lack of protein and fluid absorption. The wet tissue of the mouth and eyes may become noticeably red and the heart may beat too rapidly. When your veterinarian palpates (examine by touch) your dog’s abdominal area, your dog may respond with pain or discomfort. Dogs that have contracted CPV may also have a low body temperature (hypothermia), rather than a fever.

Most cases of CPV infections are caused by a genetic alteration of the original canine parvovirus: the canine parvovirus type 2b. There are a variety of risk factors that can increase a dog’s susceptibility to the disease, but mainly, the virus is transmitted either by direct contact with an infected dog, or indirectly, by the fecal-oral route. Heavy concentrations of the virus are found in an infected dog’s stool, so when a healthy dog sniffs an infected dog’s stool, it will contract the disease. The virus can also be brought into a dog's environment by way of shoes that have come into contact with infected feces. There is evidence that the virus can live in ground soil for up to a year. It is resistant to most cleaning products, or even to weather changes. If you suspect that you have come into contact with feces at all, you will need to wash the affected area with household bleach, the only disinfectant known to kill the virus.

Improper vaccination protocol and vaccination failure can also lead to a CPV infection. Breeding kennels and dog shelters that hold a large number of inadequately vaccinated puppies are particularly hazardous places. For unknown reasons, certain dog breeds, such as Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Pit Bulls, Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, English Springer Spaniels, and Alaskan sled dogs, are particularly vulnerable to the disease. Diseases or drug therapies that suppress the normal response of the immune system may also increase the likelihood of infection.

CPV is diagnosed with a physical examination, biochemical tests, urine analysis, abdominal radiographs, and abdominal ultrasounds. A chemical blood profile and a complete blood cell count will also be performed. Low white blood cell levels are indicative of CPV infection, especially in association with bloody stools. Biochemical and urine analysis may reveal elevated liver enzymes, lymphopenia, and electrolyte imbalances. Abdominal radiograph imaging may show intestinal obstruction, while an abdominal ultrasound may reveal enlarged lymph nodes in the groin, or throughout the body, and fluid-filled intestinal segments.

You will need to give a thorough history of your pet's health, recent activities, and onset of symptoms. If you can gather a sample of your dog's stool, or vomit, your veterinarian will be able to use these samples for microscopic detection of the virus.

Since the disease is a viral infection, there is no real cure for it. Treatment is focused on curing the symptoms and preventing secondary bacterial infections, preferably in a hospital environment. Intensive therapy and system support are the key to recovery. Intravenous fluid and nutrition therapy is crucial in maintaining a dog’s normal body fluid after severe diarrhea and dehydration, and protein and electrolyte levels will be monitored and regulated as necessary. Medications that may be used in the treatment include drugs to curb vomiting (antiemetics), H2 Blockers to reduce nausea, antibiotics, and anthelmintics to fight parasites. The survival rate in dogs is about 70 percent, but death may sometimes result from severe dehydration, a severe secondary bacterial infection, bacterial toxins in the blood, or a severe intestinal hemorrhage. Prognosis is lower for puppies, since they have a less developed immune system. It is common for a puppy that is infected with CPV to suffer shock, and sudden death.

Even after your dog has recovered from a CPV infection, it will still have a weakened immune system, and will be susceptible to other illnesses. Talk to your veterinarian about ways by which you can boost your dog's immune system, and otherwise protect your dog from situations that may make it ill. A diet that is easily digested will be best for your dog while it is recovering.

Your dog will also continue to be a contagion risk to other dogs for at least two months after the initial recovery. You will need to isolate your dog from other dogs for a period of time, and you may want to tell neighbors who have dogs that they will need to have their own pets tested. Wash all of the objects your dog uses (e.g., dishes, crate, kennel, toys) with non-toxic cleaners. Recovery comes with long-term immunity against the parvovirus, but it is no guarantee that your pet will not be infected with the virus again.

The best prevention you can take against CPV infection is to follow the correct protocol for vaccination. Young puppies should be vaccinated at six, nine, and twelve weeks, and should not be socialized with outside dogs until at least two weeks after their last vaccinations. High-risk breeds may require a longer initial vaccination period of up to 22 weeks.

The Fox Terrier is an outgoing, inquisitive and active dog with a devil-may-care demeanor. He has an endless desire to be digging, barking and investigating. That’s just what terriers do, and they’re good at it. If that behavior would drive you batty, the Fox Terrier is not for you. But if you, too, have an excess of energy and curiosity, keep reading.

A Fox Terrier will need firm, fair, and consistent training from a young age so he'll understand the boundaries necessary for living with humans. As long as he's getting plenty of exercise and stimulation for his quick mind, he's perfectly capable of differentiating between the great outdoors and the family room sofa -- as long as you take the time and care to teach him.

Fox Terriers are active and cheerful playmates for kids, although they are too rambunctious for toddlers. They generally get along with dogs their size or bigger, but toy dogs and cats are likely to set off their prey drive. They will chase and kill them if given the chance.

When he’s not landscaping your yard or chasing the neighbor’s cat or alerting you that someone is walking by the house, the Fox Terrier is likely to be playing with his favorite squeaky toy or entertaining you by performing tricks. After wearing himself out with all this activity, he’ll curl up by you on the sofa while you watch TV and then sack out in bed with you.

Last but not least, it should go without saying that a people-loving dog like the Fox Terrier needs to live in the house. It’s an unhappy Fox Terrier who is relegated to the backyard with little or no human companionship.

The Fox Terrier’s original purpose was to ride shotgun in a saddlebag as hunters rode to hounds. When the fox was run to ground, the Fox Terriers were released to rout him out.

All information from Vet Street.

The day is drawing closer when families and friends all across the country will be gathering around the table sharing what they’re thankful for, good food, and maybe a backyard football game or two. Thanksgiving Day conjures up memories for everyone, and we want to make sure that this holiday will be filled with good memories for you and your loved ones – including your pets.

Fido and Fluffy will undoubtedly be staring at you from across the room (or from your feet or above your shoulder depending on what passes for manners in your house), begging you for a tasty morsel from the Thanksgiving smorgasbord gracing your table, and we’ve made a handy chart as a guide on what’s good, and what’s not. (Click here for a printer friendly version.)

Please keep in mind as you read over this list that even foods deemed as “good” for your pets should only be fed to them in moderation. Overloading their bodies with foods that their tummies aren’t used to could end your holiday on a very sour note.

While your pets could go without table scraps, we know they’re part of your family too, and you enjoy including them in your traditions as much as possible. We hope this chart will help keep everyone safe and happy over the holiday. If you’d rather not worry about giving them the wrong food, you could make them their very own Thanksgiving treats with this recipe for Pumpkin Peanut Butter Wafers. You could use turkey, leaf, or other fall-themed cookie cutters to make them even more special!

All information from Pets Weekly.