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Crate Training


Using a crate to raise a puppy is the kindest and fairest method of all, because it provides a puppy with a lesson for life. Not only does a puppy learn when to and where not to relieve himself, but he also grows up feeling relaxed, safe and secure in confinement.

Though the first lesson is for puppies, the second is forever.
Dogs who are comfortable in crates can be more safely transported, and they are generally more relaxed if they have to stay at the veterinarian’s. Finally, crates provide pets with safe, secure housing in an emergency, such as during a natural disaster.

Bottom line: The expanded use of crates, once just for shipping by air, has been one of more significant advances in modern dog training and care.

Most dogs learn quickly that a crate is “a room of his own,” and as long as the pet isn’t left crated for extended periods of time, the crate is a tool that really and truly works well for all.

So how does a crate “magically” house-train a puppy?

Crate-training limits a puppy's options to three: He's either empty and playing in the house, he's in the crate and "holding it" because he doesn't want to sit in his own waste, or he's at the place you've chosen for him to relieve himself. A key to successful crate-training is to purchase a crate that's large enough to allow the puppy to turn around, but not so roomy that he can do  his business in one corner and take a nap in the other.

It's also important that puppies are not left in their crates for extended periods of time. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, or after a period of play. Set up a schedule to accommodate his needs as you work to mold behavior; young puppies, especially small breeds or mixes, can't go very long without eating, drinking, sleeping or relieving themselves.

A good rule of thumb: Puppies can hold it as long as their age in months. A 2-month-old pup can hold it in a crate for about two hours, for example.

When the puppy walks into the crate, praise him and give him a toy or treat. But don’t make a huge fuss over his walking in — be calm and matter-of-fact about it. Your puppy should associate positive experiences with the crate, so he comes to think of it as a natural place to relax.

Let the puppy sleep next to your bed in his crate — sleeping near you speeds the bonding process. When he's young, he may wake you in the night to let you know he needs to go outside. But as he grows older, he should be able to make it through the night. Then, as soon as he's awake in the morning, lead him to the chosen outside spot. When he goes, praise him thoroughly. Then take him inside for breakfast. Feed him and offer him water, and then take him out for another chance to go. If he goes, more praise and back inside for play. Once he's completely empty, put him in the crate. Ignore the whines and whimpers. If left alone, the puppy will soon be fast asleep and will stay that way until it's time for the next round of out, eat/drink, out, play, crate.

Remember, the goal is for your puppy to become reliable enough to roam free in your house, not to stay in a crate for life. A crate is not a storage container for a dog.

Eventually, your pet will spend more of his time loose in the house under your supervision, and he will start asking to visit his outdoor spot. Don't forget to confirm his early attempts at proper behavior by rewarding him with praise and treats.

If you spot an in-house accident, don't punish your pet. Rubbing his nose in the mess is pointless and mean. If you catch your dog in the act, a stern "no" will suffice, followed by an immediate trip to the yard and praise when he finishes up where he's supposed to. Clean up the inside mess thoroughly, treating the area with an enzymatic solution to neutralize the smell.

With proper crate-training, the number of such incidents will be relatively few, and you'll end up with a dog who is not only reliable in the house, but also confident in his own ability to stay alone when you are gone.

All information in this post is from Vetstreet.

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Why does my dog eat grass??


Who hasn’t wondered, “Why does my pet eat grass?” The truth is there isn’t one clear reason. What we do know is that eating small amounts of grass can be a harmless, albeit curious, thing for a perfectly healthy dog or cat to do. But when nibbling turns into gulping great hunks of the stuff — and grassy vomit hits the kitchen tile — it’s time to wonder what’s going on.
Causes
Your vet may consider several reasons your pet is eating grass, including these:

1. Behavioral drives. Pica is a word used to describe eating things that do not serve a biologic or nutritional purpose — such as when a pet eats paper or plastic. It may be that the behavior feels good or there is some other behavioral reason. But a medical issue, such as a neurologic disease, can cause pica, so it shouldn’t be completely written off without discussing with your vet.

2. Nutritional cravings. Even though a dog or cat may be eating a nutritionally complete diet, that doesn't mean that cravings for certain things (such as grass) don't occur.

3. Idiopathic causes. Idiopathic means simply that the veterinarian doesn't know the exact cause. But you should continue to watch the situation.

What To Do at Home

Owners who observe their pets frequently nibbling grass probably don’t need to rush to the emergency room. Rather, they should watch their pets to gain more information about the grass eating. Ask yourself:
  • Does my pet eat grass voraciously?
  • Does he vomit or feel sick afterward?
  • Is there pattern? For example, does it also happen on days when he doesn’t eat all of his food?
If you answer no to the first two, there’s probably no need to raise the issue with your veterinarian. If the answer to either is yes, it’s worth paying attention to No. 3.

Armed with this information, owners can then present their findings to their veterinarians.

What Your Veterinarian Will Do

Your pet’s doctor will begin looking for a medical condition at work in the grass consumption. The goal is to figure out if it is a sign of a minor ailment, a more serious disease, or nothing more than normal albeit slightly eccentric behavior.

Normally the vet will start with the least invasive test and move on to more expensive, more invasive tests as needed (which will depend on the severity of the symptoms). From least to most invasive:
  • Fecal examination (to check for parasites)
  • Blood work: CBC, blood chemistry
  • Urinalysis
  • X-rays
  • Abdominal ultrasound
  • Barium study (a type of x-ray study for examining the intestinal tract)
  • CT scan
  • Endoscopy with biopsies
  • Exploratory laparoscopy with biopsies
Few grass-eaters are likely to have ever suffered an exploratory laparoscopy to surgically look into the contents of an abdomen and biopsy the gastrointestinal tract, but severe symptoms could theoretically lead a veterinarian to decide this is the best approach.

Not every grass-eater has a serious medical problem, though. For many pets who want to sample the lawn, the prescription may be to let them go right ahead. Just make sure the grass is not treated with any chemicals that could be harmful if your pet eats them.

All information in this blog post is from Vetstreet

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Traveling with your pet

The number of people who travel with their dogs is growing, and so too are the options for pets on the road. From "ruffing it" at campgrounds to enjoying fabulous four-star hotels, the time has never been better to pack up your pet and go.

Traveling with dogs offers some challenges, but nearly all are surmountable with common sense and creativity. Here’s what you need to know when you’re on the road.
Step 1: Talk With Your Vet
While most dogs come to enjoy riding in the car, many need help getting to that stage. Just like some people, some pets get motion sickness, while in others the problem is anxiety. Some dogs vomit when experiencing motion sickness. Other pets may drool excessively, with copious amounts of saliva drenching the upholstery, or pant uncontrollably. Some pets may do all of these.

Talk to your veterinarian about medications that can help address issues like anxiety and vomiting. For some pets – the anxious ones -- the medication may only be needed while your pet learns to become more comfortable in the car. For those pets with queasy tummies, anti-anxiety and anti-vomiting medication may always be needed when traveling. Your veterinarian can also advise you if medication is not the best option for your dog.

Step 2: Get Your Dog Acclimatized

Teach your dog to enjoy riding by using treats to reward tiny steps such as walking up to the car (treat), getting in (treat), getting into a harness or crate (treat) and then treats for progressively longer rides. Make sure during the learning period that the destination is somewhere she wants to go: A park, a pet-store or business where treats are handed out, or another place where your dog feels comfortable and happy, such as a friend’s house.

If your dog doesn’t seem to be getting more comfortable in the car, talk to your veterinarian about a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can help.

Step 3: Get the Gear

While many of us remember our dogs riding shotgun, often with his head out the window, safety experts now advise that dogs be secured in the vehicle in a crate or harness. In an accident, a loose dog is a danger to herself, to others in the car and to everyone on the road. It is easy for one accident to turn into many if other drivers have to not only avoid your collision but also a terrified dog. Crates are probably the best means of safe restraint, but if you have a big dog and a small car, a crate likely isn’t an option. Fortunately, the last few years have seen many companies develop car-harness restraints that are not only comfortable for your dog but also work with your vehicle’s seat belts or child-seat anchors.

What about barriers? While these have long been popular in wagons, vans and SUVs, many barriers crumble or collapse under the forward impact of a dog in a crash. If you choose a barrier, be sure it can be secured to the car’s frame and is sturdy enough to hold up in an accident. If not, use a crate or a seat-belt harness.

Once restraint is under control, you’ll need to have food and water dishes and spill-proof containers for both. You’ll also need a leash and a comfortable travel harness or collar, and pick-up bags for cleaning up after your pet. A basic pet first-aid kit is recommended as well, and travel will be easier if you have a book of pet-friendly hotels or a tablet or smart phone app with these listings. Make sure you bring any medication your pet is on, along with what you need to give the pills, such as a pill gun or pill pockets.

And make sure your pet has an ID tag with your cell phone number on it. Even better: An ID tag and a microchip -- and make sure your pet’s chip is registered and the information is current.

4. Don’t Forget to Take Breaks

Walk your pet well before you hit the road to give her a chance to relieve herself. Once you’re en route, schedule potty breaks at least every few hours. Offer water at these breaks, and keep your pet’s feeding schedule as close to normal as possible. If your pet is on medication for nausea or anxiety, ask your veterinarian when to give the pills – with meals, on an empty stomach, an hour before you leave and so on.

Even if your dog knows to come when called in your own neighborhood, keep your pet on leash when traveling. Many pets get confused in new places and situations and may not be reliable off-leash, even where it’s allowed. And be responsible: Not only should you pick up after your pet but you should also prevent your pet from bothering others, whether by barking in a hotel room or running up to people who may not like dogs.

And most important: Remember that even on a day that’s merely “warm” the temperature in a car can reach dangerous levels within minutes – well over 100°F – even if the windows are partially opened.

Traveling with a dog has never been more popular, and never have there been so many products to help you and hotels to welcome you. Take advantage of dog-friendly America and you’ll both be happier.

All information in this post is from Vetstreet

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Vaccines: FAQ


Q:   What are vaccines?

A: Vaccines are health products that trigger protective immune responses in pets and prepare them to fight future infections from disease-causing agents. Vaccines can lessen the severity of future diseases and certain vaccines can prevent infection altogether. Today, a variety of vaccines are available for use by veterinarians.
Q: Is it important to vaccinate?

A: Yes! Pets should be vaccinated to protect them from many highly contagious and deadly diseases. Experts agree that widespread use of vaccines within the last century has prevented death and disease in millions of animals. Even though some formerly common diseases have now become uncommon, vaccination is still highly recommended because these serious disease agents continue to be present in the environment.

Q: Which vaccines should pets receive?

A: When designing a vaccination program, veterinarians consider the pet's lifestyle, related disease risks, and the characteristics of available vaccines. "Core vaccines" (e.g., rabies, feline panleukopenia, feline viral rhinotracheitis, feline calicivirus infection, canine distemper, canine parvovirus infection, and canine hepatitis) are recommended for most pets. Additional "non-core vaccines" (e.g., feline leukemia, canine kennel cough and other vaccines) may be appropriate based on the pet's particular needs.

Q: How often should pets be revaccinated?

A: Veterinarians have traditionally vaccinated annually; however, they are now learning that some vaccines induce immunity that lasts less than one year, whereas others may induce immunity that lasts well beyond one year. The AVMA recommends that veterinarians customize vaccination programs to the needs of their patients. More than one vaccination program may be effective.

Q: How does my pet's lifestyle affect its vaccination program?

A: Some pets are homebodies and have modest opportunity for exposure to infectious disease, whereas others have a great deal of exposure to other pets and/or wildlife and infectious disease by virtue of their activities. Still other pets live in geographic areas that place them at greater risk for contracting some infectious diseases. Differences in lifestyle illustrate the importance of customizing a vaccination program to individual patients.

Q: Are there risks associated with vaccination?

A: Vaccines have protected millions of animals from illness and death caused by infectious diseases. All medical procedures, however, carry with them some risk. Fortunately, in the case of vaccination, serious adverse responses are very infrequent. Veterinarians minimize risk by carefully selecting vaccines on the basis of a pet's individual needs and by choosing appropriate injection sites. In an effort to find ways to prevent even these limited numbers of adverse responses from occurring, the AVMA is working with government and industry to redefine how information regarding adverse responses is gathered, analyzed, and disseminated.

Q: Is serologic testing useful to evaluate immunity to some diseases?

A: Theoretically, tests that measure antibody response (i.e., serologic titers) may help veterinarians determine the need for revaccination in some cases. Unfortunately, veterinarians cannot be certain that a specific concentration of antibody is always protective or that a lower concentration leaves an animal unprotected.

All information in this post is from the AVMA website. 

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Breeds: Chihuahua!!


First discovered in Mexico, the Chihuahua is best known for being the smallest dog breed in the world. Extremely loyal to its owner, the breed has recently become a popular culture icon in the United States, most notably Paris Hilton's Chihuahua, Tinkerbell.

Physical Characteristics


The Chihuahua’s coat can be long with soft and straight hair, smooth with glossy and soft hair, or wavy with fringed ears. Its graceful body is compact and small, although slightly long in proportion to its height. The Chihuahua also bears a resemblance to the terrier in its alertness, attitude and lively expression. As far as its appearance, the breed can be found in solid black, solid white, with spots, or in a variety of patterns and colors.

Personality and Temperament


The Chihuahua is known for its varied temperament. For example, while the Chihuahua is reserved towards strangers, it is friendly with pets and other household dogs. The dog may also try to act protective, but this boldness is generally displayed as barking and is, therefore, not very effective as a guard dog. However, this sassy dog has become a favorite among toy dog lovers, especially for its extreme devotion to its master.

Care


As the Chihuahua is generally an indoor dog, it is not fond of the cold, preferring instead warmer regions. For the smooth Chihuahua variety, coat care is minimal, while the long-coated dog needs to be brushed twice or thrice a week. The Chihuahua's exercise needs can be met simply by running around the house, although it enjoys exploring yards or going for a short leash-led walks.

Health


The Chihuahua, which has an average lifespan of 14 and 18 years, is known to suffer from some minor health ailments such as keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS), hypoglycemia, pulmonic stenosis, patellar luxation, and hydrocephalus. It is also susceptible to some severe health issues, including molera -- a hole in the Chihuahua's skull, occurring when bones in the fontanel are not firmly knit together.

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Does Your Pet Have Bad Breath??


Simple chronic halitosis. Whether we’re talking humans or pets, bad breath is a big deal. It’s a stinky problem, but take heart. In most cases there’s a lot you can do to keep bad breath at bay.


Causes

There are a variety of causes for bad breath in pets, these include:
1. Periodontal disease. It’s by far the most common cause of bad breath in pets. Studies show that after the age of 3 years, 80 percent of dogs and cats will have signs of periodontal disease. The cause of the offensive odor in these cases is the bacteria that coalesce as plaque and cause irritating gingivitis. As plaque matures and periodontal disease progresses, more destructive bacteria come into play. Periodontal disease is a painful condition that can lead to tooth loss and damage to organs like the heart and kidneys.

2. Teething. Kittens and puppies often have ick breath when they are teething. Kittens, especially, seem prone to the problem, which typically lasts only a couple of months. What happens is that bacteria collects at the gumline as baby teeth are edged out by budding adult teeth.

3. Oral disease. In addition to gum disease a host of other oral diseases can cause bad breath. These include stomatitis, a common feline condition that causes painful inflammation of the gums and mouth tissues; oral masses, which include both cancerous and benign growths; and gingival hyperplasia, a condition in which the gums overgrow, creating bumps and deep crevices where bacteria proliferate.

4. Gastrointestinal disease. If the esophagus, stomach, or intestines are sick, they can make for stinky breath. It’s a far less common reason for halitosis than periodontal disease, however.

5. Metabolic disease. Diseases that affect the body’s metabolic balance or allow for the presence of abnormal levels of certain toxins in the blood can yield impressive mouth odors. Kidney disease is the most well-known of these. The end-stage process called uremia causes a characteristically sour-smelling breath.

What To Do at Home

Taking an active role in your pet's dental care can help keep foul breath under control.
1. Brush your pets teeth. All pets — dogs and cats alike — should be trained early on to accept simple tooth brushing as part of their daily (at the very least, weekly) routine.

2. Plaque-reducing treats can be helpful, but they are not all created equal. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation.

3. Water additives promise fresh breath, but do they deliver? It seems some do. Ask your veterinarian for advice before buying the first kind you spy in the pet store.

What Your Veterinarian May Do

When you take your pet to the vet, here are things the doctor may do:
1. History. Most veterinarians will start by asking a few questions to understand the history of the bad breath. When did you first notice it? Has it changed? How has you pet been otherwise?

2. Physical examination. Examining the whole body, not just the mouth, is a crucial part of the process. The oral examination, however, is by far the most important aspect of bad breath assessment.

3. Anesthetic evaluation. Unfortunately, a thorough assessment of a pet’s oral cavity is almost always impossible without sedation or anesthesia. Once the pet is sedated, each individual tooth can be probed, x-rays can be taken, and other structures in the mouth can be examined.

4. Dental cleaning. Dental cleaning is indispensable when combatting bad breath. That’s because ridding the teeth (and area under the gumline) of plaque bacteria goes a long way toward improving the health of the teeth and gums, and therefore treating bad breath.

5. Biopsy. It may sometimes be necessary to obtain a sample of apparently abnormal tissue to determine its origins before definitive treatment can be initiated. This tends to be the case when oral masses are involved.

Treatment

Treatment of halitosis depends wholly on the underlying cause. Because most halitosis is born of periodontal disease, treatment for bad breath tends to rely heavily on at-home care in addition to professional dental cleanings. Talk with your vet about what is the best action plan for your pet.

All information in this post is from VetStreet

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Four Reasons to Take Your Cat to the Vet Regularly


A 2009 study by the cat litter company Feline Pine provided some alarming revelations about how rarely cats go to the vet. Of the 720 people who responded to the survey, more than a third of them only took their cat to the vet only if the animal was sick or injured. Worse yet, only 17 percent had their cats regularly vaccinated against rabies and distemper. In order to raise awareness about the importance of annual vet visits, the company started an education campaign, National Take Your Cat to the Vet Day. That day is Wednesday, Aug. 22, and here are four important reasons for regular check-ups.



1. Early warning

Yearly physical exams allow your vet to detect early warning signs for health problems. For example, a heart murmur could lead to heart failure or be a sign of thyroid disease; and dental disease could lead to systemic infections that damage the liver, kidneys, or heart.

2. Vaccinations

If you live in the United States, it’s required by law that you vaccinate your cat against rabies. If your cat isn’t up to date on her rabies vaccine and she is bitten by a rabid animal, she will almost certainly end up being put down. There are a couple of other “core” vaccines that cats should get as well. Your vet will work with you to tailor a vaccine plan appropriate to your cat’s lifestyle and make sure she doesn’t get unnecessary vaccines.

3. Familiarity

Yearly exams will help your vet get to know your cat, and you. Cats can’t tell people what hurts or why they don’t feel well. The better your vet knows your cat’s regular weight, coat condition, and personality, the better she’ll be able to find out what’s wrong with your cat when you bring him in because he's “not acting right.”

4. Trust and communication

Regular vet visits will help you feel more comfortable with your cat’s veterinarian. The more you see your vet handling your cat and the more you talk to her, the more you’ll come to trust her. Building trust in your vet when your cat is happy and healthy will go a long way toward helping you cope, and trust in your vet’s skills and abilities, if your cat ever needs emergency care or becomes seriously ill.
All information in this post is from Catster

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Motion Sickness in Dogs


A car ride! A car ride! A car ride! For most dogs it’s the greatest thing since the cookie. But a dog can get motion sickness just like people do, which can mean that even a short car trip becomes stressful for the dog — and disgusting for the owner. Fortunately, there are ways to ease or eliminate a dog’s motion sickness, including conditioning and medication.

Overview

Motion sickness is much more common in puppies and young dogs than in older dogs, presumably because the ear structures used for balance aren’t fully developed in puppies. If the first few car rides of a dog’s life result in nausea, the dog may begin to equate travel with uncomfortable sensations, even after his or her balance system fully matures. Therefore, a dog who suffers motion sickness should be treated as soon as possible.
Stress can also add to motion sickness; if a dog rides in a car only to go to the veterinarian the negative sensations associated with travel can be more pronounced. If a dog continues to appear ill even after several car rides, the owner should consult a veterinarian about treatment for motion sickness.

Signs and Identification

Not all motion sickness manifests as vomiting. Signs of motion sickness in dogs include:
  • Inactivity
  • Listlessness
  • Uneasiness
  • Yawning or panting
  • Whining
  • Excessive drooling
  • Vomiting (even on an empty stomach)
  • Fear of cars
If a dog develops a secondary fear of riding in cars, a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist can help determine whether the cause is motion sickness or something else, such as an orthopedic condition or anxiety unrelated to motion sickness.

Affected Breeds

All breeds of dogs seem equally susceptible to motion sickness.

Treatment

To help owners prevent or treat motion sickness in dogs, veterinarians often recommend one or more of the following approaches:
  • Help your dog face forward while traveling by strapping him or her into the seat with a specially designed canine seatbelt.
  • If you buckle your dog into the front passenger seat, position the seat as far as possible from the dashboard or disable the passenger air bag, which can be hazardous to dogs.
  • Lower car windows a few inches to equalize the inside and outside air pressures.
  • Keep the vehicle cool.
  • Limit your dog’s food and water consumption before travel.
  • Give your dog a treat or two every time he or she gets into the car.
  • Give your dog a toy that he or she enjoys and can have only in the car.
  • Give your dog a one- to two-week break from car rides.
  • Use a different vehicle to avoid triggering your dog’s negative response to your usual vehicle.
  • Take short car rides to places a dog enjoys, such as the park, especially if your dog associates car rides only with trips to the veterinarian’s office.
Gradually build up a dog’s tolerance to car rides. The following steps should take a few days to a week:
  1. Accustom your dog to approaching the car without getting in it.
  2. Spend time with your dog in the car with the engine off.
  3. Take short trips (e.g., around the block).
  4. Take longer trips. Reward your dog with praise and/or treats every time he or she does something well.
If a dog doesn’t outgrow motion sickness or respond to conditioning techniques, consult your veterinarian about medication to help your dog. There is a medication approved for preventing vomiting due to motion sickness in dogs. However, if anxiety or other issues are involved, additional therapies may be recommended.

Prevention

In many cases treatment and prevention are the same thing, so see the list above.
All information in this post is from Vetstreet.

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4 Signs That Your Cat is in Heat


We all know how important it is to have our cat companions spayed or neutered. But sometimes time gets away from even the best-intentioned cat caretakers -- and before you know it, you’ve got a cat in heat on your hands. Don’t delay a trip to the vet if you see the following signs.

1. Increased appetite and restlessness

This is the first sign of proestrus, the earliest stage of a cat’s estrus, or heat, cycle. Other things you might notice are tomcats gathering around your home because your cat’s pheromones are attracting them. If you don’t notice the cats, you’ll probably notice their calling cards: You can’t miss the stench of tomcat spray.
Your cat’s vulva might be slightly enlarged and moist, but you probably won’t notice this because 1) she’ll probably lick off any discharge, and 2) because the odds are you’re not into closely examining your cat’s genitals. Proestrus lasts one or two days.

2. Creepy calling and meowing

When you hear a female cat in heat calling, the sound can be downright bone-chilling. As her urge to mate grows, the calls become almost alarming, as if she’s in pain. It can also make you crazy, because as her heat ramps up, the calling is going to get louder and more insistent, and could become almost constant.
If there weren’t tomcats at your doorstep before, there sure will be once your cat starts calling. Calling is an indication that she’s in full heat, or estrus.

3. A dramatic increase in affectionate behavior

If you thought your cat was a lovebug before, now she’ll probably be glued to you, constantly demanding your attention, weaving in and out of your legs, rubbing against you, shaking her pelvis, and rolling on the floor. But if you pick her up while she’s rolling around, she may grab your arm or even bite.

4. The "come hither" pose

If you stroke your cat’s back while she’s in heat, she’ll raise her hips to stick her butt in the air, twitch her tail to the side, and start treading with her hind feet.
These last three signs indicate that your cat is in full-on estrus and extremely receptive to being mated. She may become an escape artist, doing whatever she can to scratch her hormonal itch. Estrus lasts four to six days.
After your cat has been through the week to 10 days of proestrus and estrus, more commonly known as “heat,” she’ll go into the third stage, known as interestrus. During this stage, she’ll refuse to mate and aggressively attack any tomcat that gets in her way. If she didn’t mate during the heat cycle, she’ll remain in this interestrus stage for one to two weeks, and the whole process will start all over again.
                             
If your cat is older than about five months and begins showing these signs, get her to the vet for her spay as soon as you can. Cats will continue to go in and out of heat until they get pregnant or get spayed.
Cats who aren’t spayed have a much higher risk of developing mammary and uterine cancer, as well as polycystic ovaries, due to constantly fluctuating hormone levels. Spaying also eliminates the risk of a potentially fatal uterine infection called pyometra (I once saw a cat at a vet clinic that was dying from pyometra, and it was truly horrible). Your cat’s behavior will improve and you won’t have boy cats coming over to visit at all hours of the day and night.
But spaying isn't just good for your cat -- it’s good for your community, too. The fewer unwanted kittens that are brought into the world, the fewer cats will be killed in shelters due to lack of space.
All information in this post is from Catster

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