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Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts

Help Stop Your Dog From Whining

Dogs whine for a variety of reasons. Your dog may whine because he wants something or because he is excited. He may whine because he is apprehensive or anxious about something. A dog who is showing appeasement behavior may whine as part of his interaction with other dogs or people.

Dogs with separation anxiety may whine when you leave them, as well as engage in other behaviors, such as pacing, drooling and destruction at exit points. If your dog is exhibiting this type of behavior, talk with your veterinarian about training with a professional, and possibly medication, to help manage your dog’s anxiety.
Dogs whine for medical reasons as well, including pain and cognitive dysfunction syndrome. For this reason, it is important that you inform your veterinarian if you notice that your dog’s whining is associated with signs of pain or if you notice any behavior changes in your pet.
Identifying the Problem
The best way to handle whining is to identify the cause of the behavior and change your dog’s behavior through reward-based training. As with any situation where your dog is exhibiting heightened anxiety, punishment is not a useful training tool. If you punish your dog for whining, the vocalization may cease, but his anxiety will not change. In fact, it may very likely become worse, and your dog may respond in a more dangerous way, such as biting.
The exact causes of whining are not always easily identifiable. Your dog may whine when a person or dog approaches him; this could mean that he is excited — or that he is afraid. If your dog is excited, downplaying the greeting and refocusing his attention can lessens the whining. If your dog is afraid, you will need to manage his fear in order for the whining to stop. If you suspect that your dog’s whining is a sign of fear, seek professional help, starting with your veterinarian.

How to End the Whining

The more occupied your pooch is during the day with a variety of activities, such as walks, food puzzles and games, the less on edge and apt to whine he will be. Redirecting your whining dog to a better activity, such as searching for hidden kibble on the lawn or chewing on a stuffed Kong, refocuses your dog’s attention on an acceptable outlet. A dog that whines when he is excited or nervous can also be taught to relax with settling exercises, such as a down stay.
Dogs that whine to get attention or items they want, such as food, a treat or a toy, require different management and training strategies. If your dog gets especially worked up during meal times, putting him in a different room while you are preparing his meal (or eating your own) can decrease his excitement or anxiety.
If your dog whines in nervous apprehension, you will need to increase his confidence in anxiety-provoking situations. For example, if your dog is anxious at the vet, plan happy visits to the vet’s office to play or get a treat from the receptionist; these fun outings will help ease his anxiety and lessen the whining. When the dog’s emotional state is changed, whining naturally decreases.

Reinforce the Positive — and Ignore the Whining

Be mindful that following up a desired behavior with something your dog enjoys makes him more likely to repeat that behavior. If you speak to your dog when he whines, you are rewarding the whining, which makes it likely that your dog will keep doing it. Even a negative response, like yelling at your dog for whining, can inadvertently reward the behavior (after all, negative attention is still attention). On the other hand, yelling at your dog when he whines may increase his anxiety, which can result in more whining.
When your dog whines, it’s best to ignore him, which can be done simply by looking away and ending all interactions with your dog. Keep in mind that whining should never be given attention, even negative attention, by any member of the family. Instead, make a point of rewarding your dog when he is quiet. This increases the chance that your dog will respond to exciting or stressful situations without whining.

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7 Trainer-Approved Puppy Housebreaking Tips


Q. We're bringing home a new puppy. Do you have any suggestions for house training?
A. Patience is key when it comes to housebreaking because every pup will pick up the process at his own pace. And unless a dog is taught where to eliminate, he'll look for any spot that's convenient and safe, which often ends up being the carpeting! Unfortunately, dogs aren't born with the moral reasoning to understand that going to the bathroom inside the house is wrong.  

Since dogs innately want to keep their personal area clean, they will venture away from their own territory to use the bathroom. But many owners make the mistake of giving a puppy too much space too fast. In this case, the dog has little incentive to wait to go outside, since his personal roaming space only makes up a small portion of the home.  

Tip #1: Get a Crate

It's best to use confinement to teach your dog that he has to wait to go to the bathroom outside the house. You can do this by purchasing a crate, so the puppy has just enough space to turn around and lie down. Another alternative, if possible, is to keep the puppy by your side at all times while clipped to a four- to six-foot leash.  

Tip #2: Honor the 15-Minute Rule

Puppies are most likely to use the bathroom within 15 minutes of eating, drinking, playing, exercising or waking up from a nap. After any of these activities, your puppy should be given an opportunity to go to the bathroom.
A general rule of thumb for how long puppies can hold their bladders: one hour for every month of age, plus one. So if a puppy is two months old, he can wait up to three hours. However, this varies from dog to dog, and a puppy should be taken out more often than his maximum hold time. I train owners to take puppies out to the bathroom every one to two hours or after any activity that stimulates elimination.
It's important to consult your veterinarian if your puppy seems to have difficulty holding his elimination for reasonable amounts of time for his age, because this could signal a medical problem.

Tip #3: Reward a Job Well Done

When it’s time for a bathroom break, take your puppy outside to the same proper elimination area each time. If he goes to the bathroom within five minutes, praise him and offer treats as soon as he does his business.
Don’t take your puppy immediately back to his confinement area, which can actually read as punishment to him. Instead, opt for a 10-minute block of supervised play in a bigger area before putting him back in the confined space. However, if your puppy does not eliminate outside, calmly place him back in his confinement area, wait 15 minutes and then try again outdoors.  

Tip #4: Accidents Happen

Never punish your puppy if he has an accident in the house. This only teaches the dog to fear the idea of going to the bathroom when people are around, and he will likely still go in the house — just not when his owner is looking. Instead, if you catch your puppy in the act, you can interrupt him with an “oops,” and immediately take him to his proper elimination area outside.  
Consider using enzymatic cleaners on any potty spots to keep your dog from smelling previous accidents and going there again.  

Tip #5: Introduce Space Gradually

As your puppy stays accident-free in the confined area, you can gradually expand his space privileges by introducing him to a new room. After one week of success without accidents, open up yet another area of your home.
However, if accidents start happening, confine him back to the previous level of success. And keep to his regular schedule of bathroom breaks, rewarding for proper elimination, throughout the entire training process.

Tip #6: Get Out of Bed

During the night, you may need to take your puppy outside multiple times. Don’t push your puppy to hold his bladder past the limit for his age or individual ability. If accidents happen at night, it’s critical that you take him out more often — the more a dog messes in his personal space, the more comfortable he will become with lying in his filth, making housebreaking difficult.

Tip #7: Don't Rely on Puppy Pads and Newspaper

Although dogs can be transitioned away from them, it makes the house-training process more complicated. I often see canines who are trained to go on pads as puppies, but they're not allowed to do so as adults, which only leads to confusion and accidents in the home.

All information from Vet Street

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Basic Obedience Training


Most owners believe that obedience training is best left to the professionals. This is entirely not true, because anybody can do it, given the commitment to success. It is definitely not an easy task, but if you have the confidence and focus to be a “pack leader,” all it takes is for you to dedicate your time and attention to the task.

At home, you must first instill the principles of good behavior as part of your puppy’s training. As you begin the serious task of teaching your puppy how to obey commands, you will find that it is difficult to teach obedience to an unruly puppy.

In fact, if you want to have your puppy certified as a good citizen, aside from the training that he receives from you at home, your puppy must also attend training classes. Beginner classes usually start when the puppy is around 14 to 16 weeks old. These classes also give your puppy the opportunity to socialize with other puppies of the same age or breed, making it easier for you to take your puppy out to dog parks and other public places where dogs are welcome.


Learning from Others


As a pet owner you also get to socialize with the other owners in the class, giving you the chance to exchange ideas with them about training your puppies. You can also exchange stories about your experiences in training and raising your puppies, which can be a big help to you. By observing the other puppies in the class, you will be able to compare your puppy’s behavior with the others in the class and know what is normal and what your puppy is either capable or incapable of at his age.

Puppy class is also a great venue for you to receive feedback on your progress in training your dog at home. The other owners, along with the trainers, can give you insights on what you are doing right, or wrong, in your training. An experienced trainer can easily point out mistakes that you may not be able to see for yourself. It can be very helpful to receive training advice from an expert in the field of dog training.

Training at Home


Some areas do not have classes for puppy training. If that is the case, then you can just begin training your puppy by following a consistent program at home. Training should be scheduled for two sessions each day at roughly the same time each day, with each session lasting about 10 to 15 minutes.

It is important to familiarize yourself thoroughly with the exercises beforehand. Read them more than once and visualize each step of the exercise in your mind. You cannot be an effective trainer if you do not know the exercises by heart. It will distract both you and your puppy if you have to keep stopping to refer to your books or notes during training.

Before the scheduled sessions, mentally go through the exercises that you will be doing with your puppy before you start each session. Remember all the guidelines on how to praise or correct your dog. In training your puppy, you must be confident and focused on what you are doing. If your puppy senses that you do not know what you are doing, or if you find yourself getting frustrated and impatient, then he will also become unfocused and it will be difficult for you to proceed with the training. Take a break until you feel that you can go on with the training in a focused frame of mind.

Exuding Confidence through Preparation


To be an effective trainer, you should be confident about yourself and in your knowledge. Your puppy needs a leader that does not waver in what is expected from him. Do not allow guilt to get in the way, and do not allow yourself to get angry if the puppy is not proceeding as expected. Proper training takes time, patience, and a strong but gentle hand. And don’t forget -- lots of verbal praise and affection when the puppy gets it right.

The proper preparation is important for training, but it is also important that you have the ability to anticipate what could go wrong during training so that you do not lose your patience. A puppy normally makes several mistakes during training, and how you react to this can greatly affect the success of his training. When you are prepared for what can go wrong, or what your puppy is capable of, you will be able to respond in a consistent way that is positive for your dog. And when your puppy knows that he can trust you, and that you are to be obeyed but not feared, he will learn for the pleasure of pleasing you. Your puppy will be able to look up to you as a leader that he can count on.

All information in this post is from PetMD. 

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Crate Training


Using a crate to raise a puppy is the kindest and fairest method of all, because it provides a puppy with a lesson for life. Not only does a puppy learn when to and where not to relieve himself, but he also grows up feeling relaxed, safe and secure in confinement.

Though the first lesson is for puppies, the second is forever.
Dogs who are comfortable in crates can be more safely transported, and they are generally more relaxed if they have to stay at the veterinarian’s. Finally, crates provide pets with safe, secure housing in an emergency, such as during a natural disaster.

Bottom line: The expanded use of crates, once just for shipping by air, has been one of more significant advances in modern dog training and care.

Most dogs learn quickly that a crate is “a room of his own,” and as long as the pet isn’t left crated for extended periods of time, the crate is a tool that really and truly works well for all.

So how does a crate “magically” house-train a puppy?

Crate-training limits a puppy's options to three: He's either empty and playing in the house, he's in the crate and "holding it" because he doesn't want to sit in his own waste, or he's at the place you've chosen for him to relieve himself. A key to successful crate-training is to purchase a crate that's large enough to allow the puppy to turn around, but not so roomy that he can do  his business in one corner and take a nap in the other.

It's also important that puppies are not left in their crates for extended periods of time. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, or after a period of play. Set up a schedule to accommodate his needs as you work to mold behavior; young puppies, especially small breeds or mixes, can't go very long without eating, drinking, sleeping or relieving themselves.

A good rule of thumb: Puppies can hold it as long as their age in months. A 2-month-old pup can hold it in a crate for about two hours, for example.

When the puppy walks into the crate, praise him and give him a toy or treat. But don’t make a huge fuss over his walking in — be calm and matter-of-fact about it. Your puppy should associate positive experiences with the crate, so he comes to think of it as a natural place to relax.

Let the puppy sleep next to your bed in his crate — sleeping near you speeds the bonding process. When he's young, he may wake you in the night to let you know he needs to go outside. But as he grows older, he should be able to make it through the night. Then, as soon as he's awake in the morning, lead him to the chosen outside spot. When he goes, praise him thoroughly. Then take him inside for breakfast. Feed him and offer him water, and then take him out for another chance to go. If he goes, more praise and back inside for play. Once he's completely empty, put him in the crate. Ignore the whines and whimpers. If left alone, the puppy will soon be fast asleep and will stay that way until it's time for the next round of out, eat/drink, out, play, crate.

Remember, the goal is for your puppy to become reliable enough to roam free in your house, not to stay in a crate for life. A crate is not a storage container for a dog.

Eventually, your pet will spend more of his time loose in the house under your supervision, and he will start asking to visit his outdoor spot. Don't forget to confirm his early attempts at proper behavior by rewarding him with praise and treats.

If you spot an in-house accident, don't punish your pet. Rubbing his nose in the mess is pointless and mean. If you catch your dog in the act, a stern "no" will suffice, followed by an immediate trip to the yard and praise when he finishes up where he's supposed to. Clean up the inside mess thoroughly, treating the area with an enzymatic solution to neutralize the smell.

With proper crate-training, the number of such incidents will be relatively few, and you'll end up with a dog who is not only reliable in the house, but also confident in his own ability to stay alone when you are gone.

All information in this post is from Vetstreet.

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