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Heartworms in Dogs

9:10 AM | Labels: , , ,

We have talked about flea and heartworm prevention and heartworms in cats but we haven't talked about heartworms in dogs. The following article from Vet Street should answer any questions you have about this preventable disease. 


That mosquito buzzing in your ear at night can drive you a little bit mad. But it can have far more serious consequences for your dog. Mosquitoes can carry heartworm larvae, and a bite from an infected insect could mean heartworm disease — and permanent damage to the heart, lungs, and blood vessels — for your dog down the line. A dog might not show any signs of infection, or he or she might cough, be lethargic, or lose weight inexplicably. Treatment usually involves a series of injections. The good news is that by following a heartworm prevention medicine regimen, it can be completely prevented.

Summary

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal condition that affects dogs, cats, and up to 30 other species of animals. It is caused by parasitic worms (heartworms) living in the major blood vessels of the lungs and, occasionally, in the heart. These worms are transmitted (as microscopic larvae) through the bite of an infected mosquito. The scientific name for the heartworm parasite is Dirofilaria immitis.
Heartworms are spread through the bite of a mosquito, and dogs increase the risk of infection for other dogs, cats and other animals. When a mosquito bites an infected dog it draws blood that contains immature heartworms (called microfilariae [pronounced micro-fill-air-ee-ay]). These microfilariae mature inside the mosquito to become infective larvae. When the mosquito eventually bites another dog or a cat, the larvae enter the new host. In dogs, these larvae often mature to become adult heartworms, which produce more microfilariae and continue the heartworm’s life cycle.
Heartworm disease can cause a variety of medical problems affecting the lungs, heart, liver, and/or kidneys. Severe complications can lead to death. Although a safe and effective treatment is available, it can be a costly and complicated process depending on how long the dog has been infected and how severe the infection is.
Despite the fact that heartworm disease is virtually 100 percent preventable, many dogs are diagnosed with it each year. The American Heartworm Society (AHS) estimates that one million dogs in the United States have heartworm disease today, and that this number may be rising.

Signs and Identification

Some dogs may show no signs of infection. However, depending on the number of worms and the duration of infection, dogs may begin to show the following clinical signs:
  • Persistent cough
  • Lethargy (tiredness)
  • Difficulty in exercising
  • Loss of appetite and weight loss
Apart from clinical signs, heartworm disease can be diagnosed using laboratory tests that check the dog’s blood for evidence of infection. Additional testing, including a CBC (complete blood cell count), blood chemistry panel, and urinalysis may be recommended for a heartworm positive pet to help assess the severity of the disease. Sometimes evidence of heartworms can be seen on ultrasound images or radiographs (X-rays) of the heart and lungs.

Affected Breeds

Dogs of any breed can become infected with heartworms.

Treatment

If infection is detected early enough, heartworm disease can be treated before permanent damage to the heart, lungs, and/or blood vessels occurs. However, if the infection has been present for a long time or consists of a large number of worms, the risk of complications increases. In these cases, treatment can be more expensive and complicated and dogs may take many months to recover from the infection.
Standard treatment of heartworm disease in dogs involves administering a series of injections with a medication that kills the heartworms. Surgical removal of the worms may be recommended in some cases.
Unfortunately, untreated heartworm disease can be fatal.

Prevention

Safe, easy-to-give, effective medications are available to prevent heartworm disease. Most heartworm preventive medications are administered as monthly oral or topical (spot-on) medications. There is also a product that can be administered as an injection every six months by your veterinarian. Whichever method of heartworm prevention is chosen, prevention is convenient and inexpensive compared to the dangers of the disease for dogs.  

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Breeds: Australian Terrier

8:40 AM | Labels: , ,


The Australian Terrier is a happy dog by nature, known for his clever sense of humor and his affection for people. The shaggy-coated Australian — about 15 pounds of spunk in all – is an independent, somewhat stubborn breed. He is a tireless ratter and excellent watchdog with an easy-care coat that sheds little.
 The cute factor of the Australian Terrier helps him to worm his way into many a heart before owner knows just how clever and active a little dog he is. For the people who love this breed, the attitude of this Down Under original becomes even more appealing over time. Live with an Australian Terrier and you’ll need a sense of humor since he finds typical terrier hobbies — digging, barking, and terrorizing the family cat — extremely amusing. With proper guidance and an owner who understands that “small” doesn’t mean “mellow,” the Australian can fit into many kinds of families and homes from city loft to country acreage.

As with virtually all terriers, consistent training should start young to channel this breed’s inquisitive nature and on-the-go attitude into activities that won’t involve noise or destructiveness. The American Kennel Club’s Earthdog events offer one such possibility; agility or other active sports are others.

A bored Australian Terrier with energy to burn will create his own competitive event, known as “Just how many holes can I dig in the backyard before they notice?” Or another perennial favorite: “Exactly how high a fence can one bored determined dog jump anyway?”
 The Australian Terrier is the perfect size for apartment or condo living, but only if you can train him to control his barking or be there to keep it to a low roar. These little dogs are very alert watchdogs or, as the neighbors would describe it, nuisance barkers.

Australian Terriers are not a great choice if you have cats, and they don’t tend to get along with other dogs, particularly if both are males. Marking behavior can also be a problem, and belly bands to block the pee from hitting the furniture are not uncommon in these confident little leg-lifters.

While the show dogs get more careful grooming, pet Australian Terriers have easy-care coats in a variety of colors; an occasional bath and weekly combing or brushing to keep shedding to a minimum are all that’s necessary. Not a backyard dog by any means, the Australian Terrier needs to live indoors as a member of the family.


All info from Vet Street.

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Bathing Your Cat

8:37 AM | Labels: , ,


With her built-in grooming tools (tongue and teeth, of course), your fastidious feline is well-equipped to tackle her own haircare needs. But if she is very dirty or gets into something sticky or smelly, you may need to give her a bath. Read the following tips before you begin to ensure minimal stress and maximum efficiency.


1. Perfect timing: Schedule baths when your cat’s at her most mellow. A play session with a cat dancer or other toy of choice can help tire out even the friskiest of felines. 

2. Clip, snip: For your own protection, ASPCA experts recommend trimming Fluffy’s claws before bathing. 

3. The brush-off: Next, give your cat a good brushing to remove any loose hair and mats. Now’s also a good time to gently place some cotton in her ears to keep the water out. 

4. Stand firm: Place a rubber bath mat in the sink or tub where you’ll be bathing your kitty so she doesn't slip. Fill with three to four inches of lukewarm (not hot, please!) water. 

5. Just add water: Use a hand-held spray hose to thoroughly wet your pet, taking care not to spray directly in her ears, eyes and nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, a plastic pitcher or unbreakable cup works great. 

6. Lather up: Gently massage your pet with a solution of one part cat shampoo (human shampoo can dry out her skin) to five parts water, working from head to tail, in the direction of hair growth. Take care to avoid the face, ears and eyes. 

7. All clear: Thoroughly rinse the shampoo off your cat with a spray hose or pitcher; again, be sure the water is lukewarm. Take good care that all residue has been removed, as it can irritate the skin and act as a magnet for dirt. 

8. About face: Use a washcloth to carefully wipe your pet’s face. Plain water is fine unless her face is very dirty—in which case, we recommend using an extra-diluted solution of shampoo, being very cautious around her ears and eyes. 

9. Dry idea: You’re almost there! Wrap your cat in a large towel and dry her with it in a warm place, away from drafts. If your kitty doesn't mind the noise, you can use a blow dryer—on the lowest heat setting. And please note, if your pet has long hair, you may need to carefully untangle her fur with a wide-toothed comb. 

10. Good girl!: Your little bathing beauty deserves endless praise—and her favorite treat—after all this! And with such a happy ending, next time she may find that bath time isn't so bad.


All info from the ASPCA. 

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Can I Teach My Cat Not to Dash Out the Door?

8:27 AM | Labels: , ,


Q. My cat tries to dash out the door every time it opens. He used to be an outdoor cat, but we've decided that it’s no longer safe to let him roam. How can I teach him to be comfortable staying in the house?  

A. Keeping your cat indoors can increase his life span, help protect him from infectious diseases and parasites, and shelter him from a gamut of other outdoor hazards, including predators, cars, toxins and the risk of being lost or stolen. With proper planning and some simple training, you can prevent door dashing and provide a stimulating inside environment for your cat.
Replace Dashing with Perching
One of the easiest ways to stop door dashing is to train your cat to station on a perch. Start by teaching him to follow a target, such as a wooden spoon, with his nose. Hold the target out in front of his nose and mark any movement at all toward the target with a verbal “good” or a click; immediately reward with a treat or toy. Work toward getting your cat to touch his nose to the end of the target.
Over time, move the target further distances and over small obstacles, such as a cat bed or the couch. Eventually, the target stick can be brought up to the perching area for your cat to follow. Some cats will automatically come to your hand if you move your fingers around, tapping the surface of the perch while using an excited voice, but you can also use a feather toy to lure your cat onto the perch if needed.    
Once your cat is on the perch, reward him for laying down or sitting. Step a small distance away and if he stays in place, reward him on the perch. If he jumps off the perch, move a shorter distance next time. Remember to keep all training sessions short to keep your feline interested. 

Practice Perching on Command

Once your cat readily follows the target to his station and stays in place, add a word such as “place” one to two seconds before you present the target. Adding the verbal command teaches your cat to go to his perch solely in response to the word. Fade your target by presenting it further away from the perch or by making it smaller. Once your cat performs the behavior entirely in response to the verbal command, gradually move yourself further away from the perch when you give the cue. Practice until your cat responds, even when you are standing next to the door.
Next, have your cat practice staying on the perch while the door opens. At first, you may only turn the knob slightly, without actually opening the door. Reward him for staying in place. Then open the door a crack and reward him for staying. Work up to having your cat stay on his perch even when the door is fully opened. If your cat jumps off his perch, shut the door immediately, reset him on the perch and try again. 
Once your cat jumps to his perch on cue and waits while you open the door, it’s time to practice the behavior as you come from outside to inside. Ask your cat to station and open the door, reward your cat on the perch with a treat, pet or toy as you are walking out, and then leave temporarily. When you come back, ask your cat to station as soon as you crack the door open. It may be helpful to have someone inside to guide your cat, as sometimes the jump from asking a cat to station when you’re inside to asking him to do the same when you’re on the other side of the door can be a big leap. Your goal is to have your cat target his area both when you leave and when you return. Be sure to practice with all members of your family. 

Make the Indoors a Fun Place to Be

Another way to keep your cat from dashing for the open door is to bring the excitement of the outdoors inside. Provide your cat with ample opportunities for exploration and play; think vertically in terms of cat perches, cat trees or even cat shelving to expand his space without having to increase the square footage of your house. Give your cat a variety of places to venture as well, such as cat tunnels, covered beds or even simple cardboard boxes. 
Cats spend a great deal of their waking time in pursuit of food, which is often distributed daily in the food bowl. Add spice to your cat’s life by hiding 10 percent of his daily ration in random places around your house (including on his perches) for him to find. Place treats or kibble in food puzzles, or freeze chunks of meat, such as tuna, in an ice cube tray with water to make meals and snacks a little more work. Grow cat-safe house plants, which can be found at specialty pet stores, to provide your cat with an opportunity to graze during the day. Single-cat homes with a cat-friendly feline may also benefit from adding a second cat to provide companionship.
A perch mounted on a windowsill allows your cat to sun himself and watch outdoor activity, such as birds, and gives him a small taste of the outdoors while keeping him safely contained. A Catio, which is netting and perches that allow your cat to be outdoors while safely held inside, serves the same purpose. Cat fencing gives your cat freedom to roam while keeping him safe from cars; however, he's still vulnerable to predators, such as large birds of prey or other cats (and the diseases they carry), so there is a risk involved.   
Finally, be sure to microchip your cat, which gives you the best chance of recovering him should he ever take advantage of an open door and escape. 

All information from Vet Street. 

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Is It OK for Pets to Sleep in the Bed?

10:54 AM | Labels: , ,


PetSide.com asked three of their Advisory Board members: Do you think it's OK to let pets sleep in the bed?

Mike Arms, President Helen Woodward Animal Center:  Not only do I think it’s ok, but to be honest, my pets allow me to sleep in the bed with them.

Nancy Taylor, President and CEO, Bideawee: Letting a pet sleep in the bed is really a personal choice, but there are things that any pet partner should consider before making that decision. It’s important to know that once you start allowing your dog or cat to sleep in the bed, they begin to expect it.  It’s easy to understand that it would feel bad to a pet to be in a nice cozy human bed one week, and then the next week to be on the floor. Even if it's a dog or cat bed, most pets know the difference!

If you are even thinking about letting your animal in your bed, think about the other unwanted pets that you might be letting in the bed as well. Especially if you have a dog or cat that goes outside, other animals may make their way into your bed (fleas or ticks for example). Make sure your dog or cat has the proper flea and tick medication to keep this under control. And cleaning your dog with a wipe when coming inside can also help.

Finally, it is a good idea to make sure that your pet wants to “share” the bed with you, not take it over. There are many dogs that will sleep in the owner’s bed, and when the unsuspecting person gets up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom, the dog does not let him or her back in. It is important to "check in" with your dog and practice giving the command "up" (allowing him to jump on the bed) and "off" (telling him to get off the bed). If your dog listens without issue to both commands, then you should be ok. If he does not, then training may be in order before allowing this privilege, as safety is the most important thing. Allowing your pet into bed is a personal decision. However, careful consideration should be made before doing this, as we know that it is hard to change behavior once it is practiced.

Marcie Campion, Ph.D., Scientific Relations Manager, Iams Company: Our pets are part of our family and it’s fine to share a bed with them as long as it’s safe and comfortable for everyone.

First, pets should be current on their vaccinations and free of parasites like ticks, fleas and worms that can transmit diseases to humans. If you have small pets, make sure they can’t roll off the bed or get rolled on, which could result in a broken bone or suffocation. Sometimes “doggy breath” can be an issue too!

Be sure to feed your pet a food that can help reduce tartar buildup and keep their teeth and gums healthy, like Eukanuba dog food with DentaDefense. A premium diet will also help keep your pet at a healthy weight, making it easier for them to get on the bed and help minimize snoring. If your pet needs to lose a few pounds, your veterinarian can assess their weight and recommend a reduced fat and calorie diet like Iams Weight Control. These simple guidelines will help you and your pet get a good night’s sleep, but you’ll have to talk to someone else about your spouse’s snoring.


All information from PetSide. 

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What You Should Know About Being a Feline Foster Parent

9:06 AM | Labels: , ,


Foster care is one of the most important aspects of pet adoption programs. Shelters and rescues depend on foster homes for many reasons – to increase their ability to help more cats and to socialize cats in their care so they have a better chance at finding their forever home, just to name a couple. 
But to many, foster cat parenting is daunting.  If you’re intrigued but have yet to take the plunge, here are five things you should know about being a foster cat parent. 

1. Fostering saves lives

Bringing a cat into your home from a shelter or rescue helps to socialize him and make him more adoptable. Plus, it makes room for another cat in that shelter or rescue to be saved!  

Some cats need to get out of the shelter environment in order to thrive. Celeste Lindell of Kansas City, KS, is fostering her first cat, a sweet shy girl named Tinkerbell, who was withdrawn and not showing well at adoption events. When Tinkerbell first came to live with her, she was withdrawn and unfriendly. But, Lindell is happy to report, “She’s really transformed and it has made a big, big difference.” Now Tinkerbell likes to spend time with Lindell and her husband and is a different cat now that she’s in a home. Will Tinkerbell be more adoptable now that she is more socialized? “Oh, absolutely,” Lindell says. “I think it does make a difference.  She has made noticeable progress.” 

2. You can find the perfect situation for you

Fostering a pet doesn’t mean an ambiguous, ongoing commitment. Many people fear that taking on a foster means there is no exit strategy. On the contrary: Organizations are interested in making each foster placement a success, which means ensuring everyone involved understands the expectations from the get-go. “There are many choices, and the key is to match the ideal candidate with the ideal foster cat,” says Layla Morgan Wilde, holistic cat behaviorist, rescuer and author of Cat Wisdom 101. 

If all you can offer are short-term stays, great! There is always a need for “emergency” overnight foster homes. If you have more time on your hands and are able to commit to longer-term care, there are always cats who need someone to work with them on trust or socialization issues.
Do you just want mellow yellow? Plenty of lap cats need a safe place to crash while they’re waiting for their forever home. Got a thing about kittens? Oh boy, you are in luck! There are always plenty of fuzzy little bundles of sweetness who need to stay with someone who will cuddle and nurture them until they’re a little older and ready to adopt. 

3. It's a low-cost way to help -- and enjoy -- cats

Shelters and rescues pay for the food, supplies, and medical costs for a cat while she’s in your care. True, you are often limited to the products and vet care the organization uses, but there should be no need to outlay cash for your foster cat. Many foster parents do purchase additional supplies or different food, but the most important thing you bring as a foster home is your time, patience and love. 

4. It teaches you about your own home 

Fostering is a great way to test-drive certain scenarios. If you already have pets, how would they react to a new addition? You never know until the situation presents itself and bringing on a foster cat is a low-risk way of seeing whether the dynamics of your existing house change with a new member. You might find that your pets love having a new playmate, or the new addition may be unwelcome. Either way, your foster cat is temporary and will help you make long-term decisions with more information. 

Fostering can also teach you a lot about yourself and your preferences as a cat caretaker. Are you good with kittens? Do you prefer an older, mellower cat? Maybe you find you love the revolving door of cats who need your help. Or perhaps you realize fostering just isn’t for you. That’s a good thing to know as well. 

5. Don’t worry about getting too attached

A lot of would-be foster parents fear finding themselves with yet another permanent resident, or being heartbroken when they have to let the cat go to her new, forever home. While both of these scenarios are realistic -- and common -- they aren’t a given, and you shouldn’t fear them. “I have been hesitant to foster before,” says Lindell, who adds that she didn’t want to become too attached. “It just seems like a slippery slope although now that I have her I think it was an unfounded fear on my part.” 

If you do end up adopting your foster cat, you are saving a life and adding a wonderful member to your family. As for being heartbroken when someone else adopts your furry charge, it will soon turn to joy and gratitude that your special foster cat has found a loving, happy home. And, really, what could be better?  
Finally, you might surprise yourself: Many foster parents report that they have developed an ability to love their fosters but not get too overly fond of them. They understand that by maintaining the status of foster parent, they can help many, many more cats than they could if they kept adopting every one. 
Fostering is truly one of the most important ways you can help save more cats in your area. If you’re considering it, why not give it a try?  Tell us some of your foster stories and tips below. 

All information from Catster. 

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Four Places to Pet Your Cat — and One to Leave Alone

8:35 AM | Labels: ,


Some things really do get better with age. I have long joked that my hairline isn’t one of them, but I know one thing that is: My ability to understand cats better, and to build a stronger, more fulfilling bond with the felines in my life and in my practice.
Which is not to say that I haven’t always loved cats, and had them in my life. But on the Idaho dairy farm where I grew up, everyone had a job, and the cats were employed keeping mice and other vermin from taking over the place. Ours was a professional relationship, an admiration of coworkers.They did their jobs, and I did mine. Workplace romance was strictly limited to a little heavy petting now and then.
I’m no longer a farm boy, but I’m still more than a little bit country. Up here on our Almost Heaven Ranch, I still have barn cats, but they are much more than coworkers now. They’re family.

Feline Love: Breaking the Code

I’ve spent my life caring for and about animals, and I’ve always been a careful observer of what makes them happy. I know the “sweet spots” on every pet I’ve ever met, and since Almost Heaven is a horse ranch (with Quarter Horses whose personalities rival Golden Retrievers for sweetness), I know what makes equine hearts sing too.
But I also know if you hit the wrong note on many a cat, you won’t be singing a happy song for long. And while most cat owners eventually figure that out on their own, you could be one of those people whose current cat tolerates pretty much anything. Your next one, though, could be scratch-happy if you don’t know where to go.
Which is why I love sharing about caring, and in cats that means sticking to four top spots for heavy petting, and ignoring one spot that dogs love but that most cats never will.

Do Not Touch!

Are you ahead of me on the one spot most cats don’t like but most dogs do? If you guessed “belly rub,” you’re right! Why the difference? While dogs are generally pretty secure in their identity as a predator — even tiny dogs seem to imagine that they’re really big, scary wolves — cats have to be more careful when they’re on the prowl. That’s because they are very aware that they are both predator and prey. To a mouse, a cat is an effective killing machine. To a coyote, a cat is lunch.
What this means for a cat is that he's always looking over his shoulder at what might be coming up behind him. When a cat is in a fight for his life, there’s no territory as important to protect as the belly, since that’s where all the vital organs are readily accessible. A touch there from a cat who hasn’t learned that you don’t mean any harm will trigger a defensive maneuver. Claws and teeth come out, even if they’re not fully engaged.
While some cats can learn to accept gentle belly rubs, others never will. Honestly, it’s probably better to stick to the spots cats do enjoy, even if your cat shows his belly all the time.

Scratch Here, Please

The places cats enjoy being petted are those where their scent glands are concentrated. When your cat rubs on you or the corner of your couch, it’s his chin and the head that make the contact. When a cat does that, he’s leaving his scent on the item (or person). Spreading his scent makes him happy and content, since it makes his environment smell familiar. (Synthetic versions of these pheromones — Feliway is the feline version— are great for helping cats get through stressful events such as moving or going to the veterinarian.)
When you pet a cat in these areas, you’re making him feel wonderfully content. And you’re also helping him to mark you with his special scent, which makes him even happier. So what are these hot spots?
  • Base of the chin. Rub your cat gently along the underside of the chin, especially where the jawbone connects to the skull. You’ll likely get the purr-motor running hard, as your cat pushes into this pleasant caress.
  • Base of the ears. Like the area underneath the chin, this spot is great for scent-marking. When your cat bumps his head against you — this is called “bunting” — he’s marking you as his own.
  • Cheeks behind the whiskers. Hit this spot right and you can often get your cat to show his pleasure keenly by rotating his whiskers forward, as if to say, “More! More! Yeah, right there!”
  • Base of the tail. I call this “Elevator Butt.” A gentle caress down the back with pressure at the base of the tail. Repeat, repeat, repeat!
Work your way through these kitty hot spots, and the love you share will only grow. You’ll have earned your tabby stripes as a cat whisperer, and your cat will love you for it.

All information from Vet Street. 

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7 Trainer-Approved Puppy Housebreaking Tips

8:42 AM | Labels: , , ,


Q. We're bringing home a new puppy. Do you have any suggestions for house training?
A. Patience is key when it comes to housebreaking because every pup will pick up the process at his own pace. And unless a dog is taught where to eliminate, he'll look for any spot that's convenient and safe, which often ends up being the carpeting! Unfortunately, dogs aren't born with the moral reasoning to understand that going to the bathroom inside the house is wrong.  

Since dogs innately want to keep their personal area clean, they will venture away from their own territory to use the bathroom. But many owners make the mistake of giving a puppy too much space too fast. In this case, the dog has little incentive to wait to go outside, since his personal roaming space only makes up a small portion of the home.  

Tip #1: Get a Crate

It's best to use confinement to teach your dog that he has to wait to go to the bathroom outside the house. You can do this by purchasing a crate, so the puppy has just enough space to turn around and lie down. Another alternative, if possible, is to keep the puppy by your side at all times while clipped to a four- to six-foot leash.  

Tip #2: Honor the 15-Minute Rule

Puppies are most likely to use the bathroom within 15 minutes of eating, drinking, playing, exercising or waking up from a nap. After any of these activities, your puppy should be given an opportunity to go to the bathroom.
A general rule of thumb for how long puppies can hold their bladders: one hour for every month of age, plus one. So if a puppy is two months old, he can wait up to three hours. However, this varies from dog to dog, and a puppy should be taken out more often than his maximum hold time. I train owners to take puppies out to the bathroom every one to two hours or after any activity that stimulates elimination.
It's important to consult your veterinarian if your puppy seems to have difficulty holding his elimination for reasonable amounts of time for his age, because this could signal a medical problem.

Tip #3: Reward a Job Well Done

When it’s time for a bathroom break, take your puppy outside to the same proper elimination area each time. If he goes to the bathroom within five minutes, praise him and offer treats as soon as he does his business.
Don’t take your puppy immediately back to his confinement area, which can actually read as punishment to him. Instead, opt for a 10-minute block of supervised play in a bigger area before putting him back in the confined space. However, if your puppy does not eliminate outside, calmly place him back in his confinement area, wait 15 minutes and then try again outdoors.  

Tip #4: Accidents Happen

Never punish your puppy if he has an accident in the house. This only teaches the dog to fear the idea of going to the bathroom when people are around, and he will likely still go in the house — just not when his owner is looking. Instead, if you catch your puppy in the act, you can interrupt him with an “oops,” and immediately take him to his proper elimination area outside.  
Consider using enzymatic cleaners on any potty spots to keep your dog from smelling previous accidents and going there again.  

Tip #5: Introduce Space Gradually

As your puppy stays accident-free in the confined area, you can gradually expand his space privileges by introducing him to a new room. After one week of success without accidents, open up yet another area of your home.
However, if accidents start happening, confine him back to the previous level of success. And keep to his regular schedule of bathroom breaks, rewarding for proper elimination, throughout the entire training process.

Tip #6: Get Out of Bed

During the night, you may need to take your puppy outside multiple times. Don’t push your puppy to hold his bladder past the limit for his age or individual ability. If accidents happen at night, it’s critical that you take him out more often — the more a dog messes in his personal space, the more comfortable he will become with lying in his filth, making housebreaking difficult.

Tip #7: Don't Rely on Puppy Pads and Newspaper

Although dogs can be transitioned away from them, it makes the house-training process more complicated. I often see canines who are trained to go on pads as puppies, but they're not allowed to do so as adults, which only leads to confusion and accidents in the home.

All information from Vet Street. 

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How Can I Teach My Dog to Drop a Toy?

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Q: How do I teach my dog to let go of a toy he is holding in his mouth? He thinks it’s a game of tug when I try to take a toy away.


A: One of the first commands dogs should learn is “drop it,” which teaches them to willingly let go of an item in their mouth, whether it be a toy, chew or miscellaneous item they may have picked up. Drop it can be a lifesaver if your dog has something dangerous in his mouth. I’ve used this before when my dogs have picked up something during a walk or around the house, such as a food item I didn’t want them ingesting. It’s also an essential behavior for dogs to know for polite play.

Drop it is also helpful for teaching dogs to let go of valued resources willingly, which is important in preventing resource guarding. If your dog already shows signs of resource guarding, such as acting aggressively or anxiously (growling, snarling, snapping, freezing in place or showing the whites of his eyes) when you approach his toys, food or resting places, contact your veterinarian for further help and a possible referral to a trainer or animal behaviorist, since this is a critical issue that needs to be addressed by a professional.

If your dog is not guarding his toys but is holding on to them as a form of play, drop it can be an excellent solution.

Teach Your Dog to Drop It
Start with an item your dog doesn’t place a high value on but is likely to put in his mouth, such as a rope toy. Say “take it” and give him the toy. While some dogs may immediately grab the toy, others may need to be coaxed; make this part more exciting by waving the toy excitedly or shaking it right by the ground. You may even need to use a low-value chew, such as a plain rawhide. As soon as your dog takes the toy, praise him.

Now move on to teaching him to let go. Say “drop it” and wait one second, and then do something to get him to let go of the toy in his mouth. For many dogs, this is as simple as placing a treat in front of his nose or — for toy-crazy dogs — pulling out a toy that is even more exciting than the one he already has in his mouth. As soon as he drops what he is holding, mark with a “good” and immediately treat or give the new toy.
I like to move the dog away from the original toy or chew he dropped by tossing the reward out and away so the dog has to move to get the reward, which allows the original object to be picked up in anticipation of the next session.
Make "Drop It" Part of Play
As you practice, teach your dog to respond to the verbal cue by saying “drop it” and waiting a little bit longer each time before doing whatever it is that gets your dog to drop the object. You can also teach him to respond to a hand signal by saying “drop it” and then moving an empty hand, shaped like it is holding a treat, in front of your dog and immediately marking with a “good” when he drops the toy. Once he drops what he is holding, give him a treat or toy as a reward.

Once your dog understands what drop it means and performs the behavior when asked, you can incorporate it into play, such as games of tug or fetch, by making it a condition of the game that he drops the toy on command before the game continues. If he will not drop the toy on command, the game is over.

If your dog ever picks up an item he should not have, ask him to drop it, and then reward him for dropping it or redirect him to a different outlet, such as replacing a sock he picked up with a dog toy that is OK for him to carry in his mouth. Practice this behavior in numerous areas and with various items to help your dog generalize the behavior and make him more likely to let go of whatever item is in his mouth, regardless of the situation.

All information from VetStreet. 

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