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Eliminate the 10 Biggest Pet Threats in Your Home

8:55 AM | Labels: , , ,


In many ways, our pets are like little children—curious, adventurous, and sometimes even mischievous. The difference is, we wouldn't leave our kids home alone all day, the way we do our pets.



10. PAINT

Adults know it's a bad idea to eat paint, but pets don't always get the reasoning behind passing up the chance to tussle with a paint can. It's hard to know exactly what ingredients are used in paint blends, but it's best for your pet and your family to choose no-VOC blends like Yolo Colorhouse. Avoid products that make "antimicrobial" or "mildew fighting" claims—these could contain toxic chemicals linked to thyroid damage. When you're finished painting, store your paint in a detached garage or building—even with the lid closed tightly, fumes still seep out.

For more information on other sources of pet poisoning, including a plant list, visit the ASPCA Poison Control Center website. If you suspect your animal may have ingested a poisonous substance, call the Poison Control Center right away at (888) 426-4435 or contact your vet.



9. LAWN CHEMICALS

The health impacts of pets coming into contact with chemical weed and bug killers could be immediate or they could take years to surface. A 2012 study published in Environmental Health found dogs with malignant lymphoma were 70 more likely to live in a home where professionals applied chemical lawn treatments. Dogs with the serious malignancy were also 170 percent more likely to come from homes in which owners used chemical insecticides to combat pests inside of the home.

8. GLOW JEWELRY

Glow jewelry isn't generally lethal to pets, but cats' tendency to bite into those glow-in-the-dark bracelets and necklaces often leads to panic situations at home. The taste is so bad, cats will drool and race around the house, trying to run away from the terrible taste. If this happens, try to rinse out the cat's mouth, and give it a tasty pet treat to eat to get rid of the bad flavor.

7. RODENTICIDES

Your quest to kill vermin seeking shelter in your home during colder months could cut short your pet's life because certain mouse baits can cause internal bleeding of dogs and cats.


6. CLEANING SUPPLIES

Eating or inhaling cleaning supplies and laundry room products can harm your pet. Furthermore, harsh cleaners are bad for you, too. 

5. CERTAIN FLEA AND TICK PRODUCTS

Insecticide poisonings resulted in nearly 30,000 calls to the Poison Control Center in 2010, and a common problem involved using flea and tick products on the wrong species.

4. LILIES 

You've probably heard that poinsettias don't belong in homes with cats, and the plants could indeed cause some discomfort, although ASPCA says the toxicity threat is generally exaggerated. Another common plant is much more dangerous. A household with a cat should never have a lily in it, ever. Cats are attracted to the greenery, but munching on a lily-containing bouquet could lead to kidney failure. 


3. XYLITOL

Xyli-what? You probably have this substance in your house without even realizing it. It's a sugar alcohol used in gum and toothpaste, and as a sweetener in other products. You can even buy it in powder form for baking. It's great for people because it doesn't cause a spike in blood sugar, and has been shown to reduce cavities. However, xylitol is toxic to dogs, who could experience a dangerous crash in blood pressure if they eat it. The sweetener is also linked to seizures and liver failure in dogs. Keep your gum, toothpaste, and kitchen sweeteners of all sorts in cabinets to avoid an unsweet disaster for your pooch,

2. GRAPES, RAISINS AND OTHER HUMAN FOODS

It's been pretty well publicized that chocolate can be fatal to dogs, particularly dark and baking chocolate. In fact, the ASPCA's poison hotline receives about 21 calls a day on the matter.

Chocolate goodies contain substances called methylxanthines, which in dogs can lead to hyperactivity, excessive thirst and urination, seizures, and even death. Other people food for your pets to avoid includes grapes, raisins, and avocadoes. Instead of feeding your pooch table scraps, make healthy, homemade pet treats.





1. PEOPLE PILLS

For the last four years, the primary reason for calls to animal poison hotlines is that a pet has gotten into its owner's medication. A dropped pill on the floor could seem like playtime for a pet, and some pill coatings even attract pets, leaving them gnawing on medicine bottles and packets. In 2011, 26 percent of calls to the poison hotline involved pets eating over-the-counter and prescription people meds.

Pets eating heart medication and ADHD drugs caused the most calls, but all human drugs could harm your animal, including non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs like aspirin and ibuprofen), antidepressants, acetaminophohen, cancer drugs, decongestants and other drugs.

To prevent this, keep all meds, creams, vitamins, and supplements in a cabinet, and when it's time to take your medicine, go into a room without your pets and close the door—that way if you drop a pill, they can't lap it up. Also note: It's never a good idea to give your pets people medicine because even tiny amounts that are harmless to us could harm or kill them.


All information from PawNation.

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How to Give Your Cat a Bath

8:23 AM | Labels: , ,

Whether your cat had a run-in with a skunk or you’re simply trying to curb the level of dander in your house, a scrub down may be just what your cat requires. See our step-by-step instructions for a safe and low-stress bathing experience.

Have a battle plan sketched out so that you can get your cat in and out of the bath as quickly as possible.
1. Anticipate how your cat might react to a bath. We understand that many, if not most, cats will avoid a dip in the water at nearly any cost. If you’re worried about your cat resisting violently, it’s always a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about how to approach this stressful situation. Your vet should be able to offer a few behavioral recommendations and/or even medications to help put your cat at ease.
2. Do advance grooming work. If possible, trim your cat’s nails before a bath to help reduce the number of scratches your forearms endure. Give the cat a good brushing before bath time to remove the loose and matted fur.
3. Pick your location. We recommend using a bathtub or sink equipped with a handheld spray nozzle to assist in the washing and rinsing of your cat.
4. Line up the proper tools and equipment. By the bathtub or sink have your supplies ready: 
  • Shampoo that is appropriate for your cat’s age and coat. Check online or at your local pet retailer for a formula that suits your grooming needs.
  • Any medicines that you are applying to the cat.
  • A washcloth for cleaning your cat’s face and head.
  • A soft towel to dry your cat.
  • Clothing that protects your arms from scratches/biting. We really can’t emphasize this enough!
5. Enlist an assistant cat wrangler. Sometimes two hands isn’t enough when dealing with four paws so have a friend with you to help soothe or restrain your cat during the washing or rinsing.

The Bath

Once you’ve gathered your materials and located a willing helper, it’s time to bathe this kitty.
1. Prepare the water. Before picking up the cat, make sure you have the lukewarm water running. If you don’t have access to a spray nozzle, fill your sink or tub with 3 to 5 inches of lukewarm water. Test the water with your hand to ensure that it’s not too hot or cold.
2. Put your cat in the tub. Gently but surely wet his or her fur using either with spray nozzle or your washcloth. Be careful to avoid splashing water in your cat’s eyes, ears, or nose.
3. Massage the shampoo into your cat’s fur.  Follow the directions listed on the label for application of the soap or medicine. Once again, carefully avoid your cat’s eyes, ears, and nose. Use your washcloth to gently wash your cat’s face and head.
4. Rinse the shampoo out of your kitty’s fur. This is the step in which a spray nozzle brings a clear advantage as you can easily move it around the cat’s body. If you’re not using a spray nozzle, use your wet washcloth to rinse the fur, refilling the sink or tub with lukewarm water until you’ve washed all of the shampoo from your cat’s coat.
5. Check for any soapy spots you may have missed. Shampoo left in the fur may cause skin irritation, or your cat may get  from licking the shampoo off. Do a careful check under your cat’s chin, it’s feet, under its abdomen, etc.
6. Dry your cat. Use your soft towel to dry his or her fur. If your cat will tolerate it, a hairdryer on a low-heat setting can speed the process.
And then consider giving your pet -- and yourself -- a treat. You both deserve it.

All information from VetStreet. 

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Do's and Don'ts of the Dog Park

8:40 AM | Labels: ,


P-A-R-K. One simple word and ears perk up, tails go into overdrive. There are eager looks from you to the leash to the door and back to you. The dog park is a great place for both you and your furry friend to spend the day playing and socializing. There are, however, things you need to know to ensure that a visit to the park is fun and safe for everyone. 

Dog Park Rules:
Follow these simple guidelines to enjoy a day of fun and frolicking while avoiding possible mayhem, altercations, and even lawsuits:
1. Watch your dog at all times. In the dog park, your dog's social life takes precedence over yours.
2. Don't go to the dog park unless your dog is current on all vaccines.
3. Be prepared: Bring water and poop bags. Always clean up immediately after your dog.
4. Do not go to the park unless your dog is trained. At the very least, he must know and listen to "stay," "come," and "no."
5. This may seem obvious, but unfortunately that's not always the case: Don't bring your dog to the dog park if he's not good with other dogs.
6. Before going into the dog park, scope out the scene: Are the people there as attentive to their dogs as you are to yours? If not, take a rain check.
7. Do not let your dog off leash until you are safely within the confines of the park.
8. Always abide by any official rules of the park itself. Rules like "no eating in the park" or "all dogs must remain on a leash" are there for the safety of all the dogs and people there; it's not worth it to rebel.
Dog Park Game-Changers:
The dynamics at the dog park can change in an instant with the arrival of a new pup, a change in weather, or even your dog's general temperament. The following scenarios could transform your dog's demeanor from happy and playful to anxious, scared, or aggressive in seconds, in which case, you should leave the park immediately.
1. Watch out for female dogs in heat. They shouldn't be there to begin with, but if they are-keep your dog away.
2. Does your dog freak out at thunder? Get out of the park at the first sign of rain clouds.
3. Maybe your dog doesn't like big dogs. Or little dogs. Or a certain gender of dogs. If you see your pooch becoming agitated because there are too many of the "wrong" canines around, get him out of the park.
4. Pay attention to your dog's mood. If he was jumping into the water, fetching sticks, and rolling around with his favorite doggie pals when you first arrived at the park, but now he's shadowing you, shivering, and yawning, he's not happy anymore. Time to go home!
Dog Bite Dangers:
1. Regardless of whether your dog was bitten or the biter, you and the other dog guardian are equally responsible for the incident. Stay calm, mature, and rational-dogs are very adept at reading your body language. Your dog will take his cues from you, so don't get riled up.
2. Separate the dogs immediately to prevent further harm.
3. Check to make sure there are no puncture wounds. If there are, get the injured dog(s) to the vet immediately-those wounds can easily become infected if not treated right away.
4. Exchange contact information with the other dog guardian.
5. Collect contact information from witnesses who saw the incident take place.
6. Know the laws. In some states the guardian of a dog who bites a person may be held liable for civil damages. For more information, visit DogBiteLaw.com.

All information from PawNation.

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Breeds: Ocicat!!

9:31 AM | Labels: , ,


Who doesn’t love a spotted cat? Random spots in tawny, chocolate, cinnamon, blue, lavender or fawn dot the Ocicat’s coat, which has a silver or nonsilver background. The wild look is just a façade, though. The Ocicat is a playful, sociable pet.




A cat lover’s favorite daydream is to have a wild cat as a companion. Their grace, power, size and beauty are almost irresistible, even though sensible people know they would be impossible to live with. The Ocicat was created to be an answer to that desire. He isn’t wild at all — he’s the result of crosses of Abyssinians, Siamese and American Shorthairs — but his spots lend him an exotic air that is difficult to resist.
Like the cats who came together to create him, the Ocicat is self-confident, talkative and highly active. He enjoys greeting visitors and can get along well with children, dogs and other cats. It’s not unusual for him to learn to walk on a leash or to play active games such as fetch, but he also has a reputation as a lap cat. The Ocicat loves attention, so do not get one if you don’t have the time or desire to interact with him frequently. He will want to be involved in everything you do.
Brush the Ocicat weekly to keep his thick coat shiny and healthy. The only other grooming he needs is regular nail trimming, ear cleaning, and teeth brushing.
The Ocicat is well suited to any home with people who will love him and care for him. Keep him indoors to protect him from cars, diseases spread by other cats and attacks from other animals.
Other Quick Facts
  • This is a large, active cat whose body screams “Athlete.” He is solid and muscular, and his short, tight, spotted coat fits like Lycra. It comes in brown, chocolate, cinnamon, blue, lilac and fawn as well as a shimmering silver version of those colors. Sometimes a kitten with a classic tabby pattern shows up in a litter, but is not eligible for show competition.
  • The Ocicat’s body is covered with large, thumb-shaped spots arranged in a classic bullseye pattern.


Ocicat Temperament and Personality

If you know someone who thinks that cats are unfriendly and independent, just introduce him to the Ocicat. This is a confident, outgoing cat who loves his family and likes meeting other people, too. He walks right up to guests in hopes of finding a good lap to sit in or someone to play with him.
A busy family with lots of activity — activity that involves him whenever possible — is right up the Ocicat’s alley. He has an adaptable nature that makes him a good travel companion for people who like to travel in an RV or take their pets on vacation with them. The Ocicat is so sociable, in fact, that he’s not best suited to a home where he will be left alone all day. If this will be the case, he should have other pets — cat-friendly dogs are fine with him — to keep him company.
The Ocicat is highly intelligent. Challenge his brain and keep him interested in life by teaching him tricks and providing him with puzzle toys that will reward him with kibble or treats when he learns how to manipulate them. He likes to play fetch, will come when called and perform other behaviors, and may willingly learn to walk on a leash. If you show him what you want—for instance, that you don’t want him jumping on the kitchen counter—he’s likely to comply, especially if you give him an alternative, such as a stool to sit on where he can supervise food prep.
Not surprisingly, he’s capable of reaching the highest points in your home, and that is often where you will find him, keeping watch over his family. When he’s not perched on high, he’s busy playing with his toys. Don’t be surprised if he becomes possessive of them and tries to play keep-away when you want to put them up.

All information is from VetStreet.

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Caring for your senior dog

9:55 AM | Labels: , ,

As your dog ages, many of his basic needs, from diet to exercise, will begin to change. This guide will help you understand what it takes to keep your senior dog happy and healthy.
Dogs are very good at hiding their health problems and as an owner, it’s your responsibility to keep an eye on your senior dog to ensure that you are adjusting his routine to match changes in his body and immune system that make him less able to cope with physical and environmental stresses. Routine exams, preventive medicine and adjustments to your dog’s lifestyle can help your pooch stay healthy even as the years creep up.

Know When Your Dog Qualifies

Different sized dogs age at varying rates, with larger dogs reaching senior status much sooner than smaller dogs.
While each dog reaches “seniorhood” at a different age, most canines become seniors between 7 and 10 years old. It’s important to know your dog’s age, so you know when he becomes a senior. Ask your vet about when your dog’s needs may begin to change.

Watch Out for Senior Health Issues

You and your vet will begin looking for specific issues that become more prevalent as a dog ages. Here’s a list of some of these issues:
  1. Arthritis
  2. Cancer (especially testicular or breast cancer)
  3. Prostate disease
  4. Cognitive disorders
  5. Intestinal problems
  6. Deafness
  7. Dental disease
  8. Diabetes mellitus
  9. Kidney disease
  10. Liver disease
  11. Vision problems

Schedule Regular Wellness Exams

Just as with people, regular health checkups become increasingly important as dogs grow older. Most experts agree that senior dogs should be seen at least once every six months. The purpose of these wellness exams is to do three things:
  1. Promote your dog’s health and longevity.
  2. Recognize and control your pup’s health risks.
  3. Detect any illnesses at their earliest stages, when they’re most treatable.
During a typical wellness exam, your vet will ask a variety of health-related questions in order to build a snapshot of your dog’s medical history. These questions often focus on your pup’s regular behaviors and whether you've observed any recent changes that may indicate a developing health concern.
During this checkup, vets typically check a dog’s body for tumors, signs of pain, or arthritis. In addition, your vet will assess your dog’s overall appearance and body condition, scanning his eyes, ears, nose, and mouth for irregularities as well as listening to his lungs and heart. A routine checkup may also include the following battery of diagnostic tests.
  1. Blood pressure
  2. CBC (complete blood count)
  3. CHEM screen (liver and kidney function)
  4. Urinalysis
  5. Thyroid function testing
  6. Heartworm blood test
  7. Fecal test
Most veterinarians agree that these baseline laboratory tests should be performed at least once a year in adult dogs ages two to seven years old, and more frequently in senior dogs. These baseline screenings allow your vet to monitor any developing trends in your dog’s health status as it changes from year to year. Additional testing may be necessary if your dog has any ongoing health issues, or if these routine screenings uncover any unusual results.

Consistently Monitor Your Senior Dog’s Health

Many of the illnesses that commonly plague senior dogs are obvious even to the untrained eye. So it’s important that you monitor changes in your dog’s health between regular vet visits. If any of the following signs present themselves, contact your vet immediately.
  • Incontinence (sometimes evidenced by accidents in the house)
  • Lumps
  • Constipation or diarrhea
  • Shortness of breath or other difficulty breathing
  • Coughing
  • Weakness
  • Unusual discharges
  • Changes in appetite, water intake, or urination
  • Stiffness or limping
  • Increased vocalization
  • Uncharacteristic aggression or other behavioral changes
Unexplained fluctuations in your dog’s weight may be an early sign of an underlying disease. Weight management itself can be a huge factor in your dog’s health. Obesity in dogs increases the risk of developing arthritis and a number of other diseases.

Take Action

Along with being more watchful over your senior dog’s health, it’s crucial that you keep up with routine preventive care such as parasite prevention, dental care, vaccinations, and nutritional management. As your dog’s immune system weakens, the importance of routine basic care only increases.
Create a comfortable environment for your aging best friend with easy access to food, supportive bedding, and fresh water whenever he needs it. In addition, plenty of regular attention and affection is good for morale, both yours and your senior dog’s.

Adjust Your Dog’s Nutrition

Foods designed for senior dogs often have less fat, but not lower protein levels. Ask your vet to recommend a senior dog food formula for your dog. Size typically determines the age at which you should shift your dog to a senior-friendly diet:
  • Small breeds (dogs weighing less than 20 pounds) – 7 years old
  • Medium breeds (21 to 50 pounds) – 7 years old
  • Large breeds (51 to 90 pounds) – 6 years old
  • Giant breeds (91 pounds or heavier) – 5 years old
Smaller, more frequent meals are often easier on a senior dog’s digestive system. You may also want to adjust your bathroom routine, giving your dog more frequent opportunities to go outside.

Adjust Your Home’s Comfort Level

Older dogs can’t regulate their body temperature as well as they could in their younger days. It is important to keep your dog warm, dry, and indoors when he’s not out getting his exercise. Senior canines are also more sensitive to heat and humidity, so protect them from conditions in which they may overheat.
If your dog has arthritis, he may prefer a ramp instead of walking up the stairs, extra blankets on his bed, or even a new bed designed to promote orthopedic health. If your dog suffers from vision loss, it’s a good idea to ease his anxiety by keeping floors clear of clutter. These little things add up.

Don’t Forget Dental Care

Plaque and tartar buildup can lead to a number of nasty health problems for your dog. Regular brushing with a specially formulated canine toothpaste can reduce the likelihood of any problems. Discuss with your vet whether your dog should come into the office for a thorough cleaning.

All information in this post is from VetStreet. 

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Hairballs in Cats

8:27 AM | Labels: ,

Ahhh, the feeling of a slimy wad of hair between the toes first thing in the morning. Does cat ownership get any better than that? Despite how common hairballs are, they really are not normal. Cats are not owls; they’re not supposed to bring up pellets of indigestible material.


Yes, cats ingest hair in the process of self-grooming, but it should move through the digestive system and come out the other end. When this process goes awry, the hair can clump together in the stomach and not pass into the intestinal tract. It causes enough irritation that a cat will usually vomit up the wad, and voila … you have a hairball on your carpet or in your shoe.

In the worst case scenario, however, the hairball becomes so large and hard that it can’t exit the stomach in either direction. This mass goes by one of my favorite veterinary terms: trichobezoar (it sounds like an evil creature from the Lord of the Rings trilogy). Trichobezoars are typically dealt with surgically.

So if hairballs are not normal, why do so many cats have them? Two explanations cover the vast majority of cases:


1. Ingesting more hair than normal

It stands to reason that if a cat takes in more hair than normal, it may "back up" and cause problems. This is why we see more hairball problems in long-haired cats.

Skin diseases (e.g., external parasites, infections, and allergies) can all cause cats to shed and/or groom themselves excessively. Extreme grooming can also be associated with stress, boredom, compulsive behaviors, and concurrent illness that is seemingly unrelated to the skin or gastrointestinal system. For example, a cat with osteoarthritis may attempt to soothe herself by stimulating the release of pain-relieving endorphins through repetitive grooming behaviors.

2. Altered gastrointestinal motility

When a cat’s gastrointestinal tract is not functioning correctly, it may not be able to process even a normal amount of hair in the way that it should. Hairballs can be associated with inflammatory bowel disease, internal parasites, pancreatitis, hernias, foreign bodies, cancers, and other potentially serious diseases.

If your cat only brings up the occasional hairball and seems normal in all other regards, you don’t have to rush to the veterinarian. Try a little home detective work first. Do you have a suspicion as to what the cause might be? If you’ve gotten a little lax on the flea control and your cat is now itchier than she used to be, reinstitute your parasite-control program. Does your cat have long hair? Try helping her groom herself with regular brushing sessions. Could her diet be playing a role? Offer a different, high-quality food made from healthful ingredients and/or switch from kibble to a canned formulation. Is your cat bored or stressed by her home life? Address those issues and see what happens.

If, however, you try a few things at home and the hairballs just keep coming, make an appointment with your veterinarian. He or she should thoroughly investigate your cat’s history, perform a complete physical exam, and may recommend diagnostic testing based on this initial evaluation. Don’t be tempted to skip this step and simply reach for one of the many hairball "remedies" that are available. They might temporarily improve your cat’s symptoms, but they do nothing to address the underlying problem that is causing your cat to leave you "presents" around the house.


All information in this post is from PetMD.

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Get Your Cat to Swallow a Pill

9:26 AM | Labels: , ,

Do you have trouble getting your cat to swallow his medication? Dr. Marty Becker from Vetstreet shows you an easy trick for getting a feisty feline to take his pills.



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