Animal General Hospital

Chocolate is dangerous for pets

8:38 AM | Labels: Dogs, Feeding, Health, Information

Give chocolate to loved ones, and you could end up poisoning them. That is, if the loved ones are your pets.

Even small amounts of theobromine, an ingredient in chocolate, can cause vomiting and restlessness in pets. Larger doses can be fatal. While most pet owners expect a dog to develop an upset stomach after eating a large amount of chocolate, few realize its toxic potential.

The lethal dose of theobromine depends on the size of the dog and the type of chocolate. Ounce for ounce, baking chocolate has six to nine times as much of the substance as milk chocolate does.

Estimates of the smallest amounts that can be fatal are:

· 4 to 10 ounces of milk chocolate or 1/2 to 1 ounce of baking chocolate for small dogs, such as Chihuahuas and toy poodles.

· 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of milk chocolate or 2 to 3 ounces of baking chocolate for medium-sized dogs, like cocker spaniels and dachshunds.

· 2 to 4 1/2 pounds of milk chocolate or 4 to 8 ounces of baking chocolate for large dogs, including collies and Labrador retrievers.

Cats have much different eating habits and seldom are poisoned by chocolate.

While a very small amount of chocolate may not harm some dogs, it’s safest to avoid giving it to them at all. If an accident occurs, a veterinarian should be consulted. Treatment may require inducing vomiting, stabilizing the animal’s heartbeat and respiration, controlling seizures and slowing the absorption of theobromine. If the animal already is comatose, its stomach may need to be pumped.

All information in this post is from AAHA.

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Meowch! Helping Your Cat Cope with Chronic Pain

8:39 AM | Labels: Cats, Information, Medication

Cats instinctively mask injury and illness to protect themselves from predators. Unfortunately, their ploy may work too well and leave them suffering with undetected and unrelieved pain.

What Is Chronic Pain?

Chronic pain differs from acute pain in that it will persist for several months, years, or even the rest of your cat’s life. Common causes include osteoarthritis, cancer, periodontal diseases, inflammatory bowel diseases, post-declaw syndrome, and feline lower urinary tract disease.

Treatment Approaches

It is important to treat pain immediately and continuously. It takes less effort, less medication and less intervention to take care of pain in its early stages versus waiting until the animal is in excruciating pain. If chronic pain is not controlled consistently, it can lead to a “wind-up” phenomenon that causes the cat to feel more pain, even if the illness is not getting worse.

The Difference Between Cats and Dogs

Although cats experience pain in the same way dogs and people do, they do not metabolize many medications like these other species.Because of this, there are fewer drug options for cats. Prescribing nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), in particular, can present challenges.

NSAIDs are a great pain management medication. An NSAID short-term may serve a feline patient well … but with [complementary] options available, the long-term use of NSAIDs in cats is probably a questionable option.

Is Your Cat in Pain?

Your cat might show pain with very subtle behavior changes, so it is important to become familiar with your cat’s routines. Pain relief will speed healing and improve your pet’s quality of life. If you notice signs, make an appointment with your veterinarian. Before prescribing medications, your veterinarian may run blood tests. If medication is prescribed, periodic blood testing will be done to monitor your cat’s response.

Warning!

Never give human pain relievers to your pets. Some human drugs, such as acetaminophen can be lethal to cats. Even though many of the medications utilized for cats and dogs in pain come straight from the human medicine discipline it is critical for pet owners to understand that it is completely inappropriate, life-threatening and potentially fatal to reach into their own medicine cabinet for pain relievers for their pets. The only medications that should be used for pet pain are those prescribed by the pet’s veterinarian.

All information in this post is from AAHA.

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Top 10 steps for a healthy dog

9:01 AM | Labels: Dogs, Information

1. Spay or neuter

Spaying, or removing the ovaries and uterus of a female dog, stops a female dog from going into heat and can help prevent breast cancer and pyometra, or infection of the uterus. Neutering, or removing the testicles of a male dog, can mellow out aggressive conduct, and help prevent testicular cancer, prostate disease, and hernias.

2. Vaccinate

By three months of age, the protective antibodies naturally passed along through a mother's milk have been used up and a puppy needs a five-in-one vaccine to help protect it against many common infectious diseases, including leptospirosis, distemper and parvovirus, as well as a rabies vaccination. Your vet may also recommend vaccinations for kennel cough and Lyme disease.

3. Visit your vet

Like you, dogs need regular visits to the doctor to ensure good health. An annual health check gives your vet the chance to nip any illness or health concerns in the bud before they can cause big problems and bills. The vet will ask about your pet's behavior, eating, and exercise habits, while checking your dog's vital stats.

4. Declare war on fleas

Fleas can cause health problems beyond itchy skin. They can be the source of allergies, anemia, and tapeworms. Fortunately there are a myriad of flea control products available, including Advantage and Frontline, two of the most popular. Monthly applications should be given based on the weight of your dog. Keep in mind when you are gearing up for your flea wars you must treat all your pets, not just the ones where fleas are obvious.

5. Treat heartworm by preventing it

Heartworm is very difficult to treat and can be fatal for your dog, so prevention is the key. Giving your dog one dose monthly of a tablet, like Heartguard, can stop heartworm before it starts.

6. Exercise your dog every day

And not just a quick jaunt around the block. Exercise through walking and playing with your dog will keep him physically fit and mentally healthy, and reduce the chance of belligerent and destructive behavior, too. Regular exercise also helps your dog maintain a healthy weight and heart, while increasing muscle mass. Your dog's exercise requirements will be different depending on breed, sex, age, and health.

7. Watch his weight

Lack of exercise and overfeeding is as much a problem in pets as it is in people. Your dog cannot decide how much exercise he needs or what kind of food he should eat; only you can do that. Arthritis, liver disease, and coronary disease are just a few of the health issues facing an overweight dog. To help your dog lose weight, your vet may recommend a mix of exercise and switching to a low-calorie brand of food, or gradually reducing the amount of regular food by 10 to 25 percent.

8. Weekly health checks

One of the best ways to prevent health issues is to check up on your dog weekly. First, inspect your dog's coat and skin for swelling, flakes or scabs. Then look into your dog's ears and eyes for any signs of redness or discharge. Finally watch for any changes in eating or drinking habits. If anything differs from what's normal for your dog, consult your vet.

9. Stay away from dangerous foods

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center compiled a list of foods that could be dangerous, even poisonous for your dog: alcoholic beverages, chocolate, avocado, coffee, fatty foods, macadamia nuts, spoiled or moldy foods, onions and onion powder, grapes and raisins, salt, garlic, yeast dough, and products sweetened with xylitol. Post this list and be sure your family and any caregivers are aware of it.

10. Brush his teeth!

Bad breath can be a sign of teeth or gum problems. Particles of food, saliva, and bacteria known as plaque can build up on the gums and teeth and cause infection. If you don't treat this, infection can result in tooth decay and even move into the bloodstream and affect your pet's heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, bones, and joints. Inspect teeth and gums weekly, and check with your vet for instructions on regular brushing with canine toothpaste.

Source: Adapted from the ASPCA

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What is this lump??

10:38 AM | Labels: Dogs, Information

There it is… that sinking feeling the moment you feel that weird lump on your precious pet’s skin. The questions start filling your mind… What is this? How long has it been there? Does it hurt? Will it go away? Should I see my vet right away?….Is it….CANCER???

From the moment you notice a weird lump, or anything abnormal about your pet, it is important to go ahead and talk to your veterinarian about it. The first step can be as simple as picking up the phone to have a chat with your veterinarian. Tell your doctor that you found something abnormal, the location, and how long you’ve noticed it.

Just like your description of the lump via phone cannot replace seeing and touching the lump, a veterinarian cannot make a definitive diagnosis based on a physical exam alone. Additional testing is the only way to determine the nature of the lump. Sometimes, testing can be as simple as inserting a small needle into the lump and obtaining a few cells. Your veterinarian may ask you a series of questions about your pet’s overall health. For example, “Is Fido eating and drinking normally?” or “Does the lump seem to cause any discomfort or worry?” Of course, your veterinarian cannot magically see through the phone line, despite your best description. A physical exam is likely necessary. There is no second-best for seeing and touching an abnormality. The skilled eyes and hands of your veterinarian are trained to pick up on very subtle deviations from the norm. He or she can tell you if further testing is necessary or if monitoring for the time-being is ok.

Your veterinarian or a veterinary pathologist can look at these cells to try to determine the nature of the lump. This works well for certain types of tumors and pockets of infection called abscesses. The best way to diagnose a lump is to have the lump biopsied or removed and submitted for histopathology. A veterinary pathologist will look at the structure of the tissue submitted and how the cells are behaving within the tissue to make a diagnosis. Having an actual diagnosis will answer all of those questions that ran through your head when you first found that awful lump.

A lot of the time, lumps are diagnosed as benign tumors. Fatty tumors, called lipomas, are very common. However, sometimes the results do show that Fido’s lump is cancer. This is a terrible feeling, one that stirs several more questions. How long will my pet live? Is he uncomfortable? What can we do about this? Should we let him go?

Based on the type of cancer diagnosed, your veterinarian can answer most of these questions. Your vet can give you a prognosis (the amount of time that your pet is expected to live). She will also be able to council you on signs that your pet is not feeling well. Additionally, your veterinarian will be able to suggest a plan for moving forward. Some cancers can be cured with complete surgical removal of the tumor and the pet’s lifespan is not affected. Sometime, however, chemotherapy is option. Of course, sometimes, due to the nature of the cancer and its expected level of aggressiveness, humane euthanasia may be discussed.

The word chemotherapy is a very frightening word. We have all been touched by people that have undergone chemotherapy and do not want to put our pets through something so harsh. The goal of chemotherapy in the veterinary world is to make your pet feel better. Chemotherapy is completely palliative in the veterinary medicine. It will not cure your pet’s disease, it will help give him time with family in which he feels better than he does presently. Every patient responds differently, but it is something that should be discussed if it is an option for your pet.

Whether your pet’s lump is benign or malignant, that first abnormal discovery is very scary. Don’t be afraid to talk to your veterinarian. Don’t be afraid to have a diagnosis. Knowledge of what’s going on with your pet can help you better prepare for the future. Only you and your veterinarian know what is best for your pet.

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Crate Training

10:43 AM | Labels: Dogs, Information, Training

Using a crate to raise a puppy is the kindest and fairest method of all, because it provides a puppy with a lesson for life. Not only does a puppy learn when to and where not to relieve himself, but he also grows up feeling relaxed, safe and secure in confinement.

Though the first lesson is for puppies, the second is forever.

Dogs who are comfortable in crates can be more safely transported, and they are generally more relaxed if they have to stay at the veterinarian’s. Finally, crates provide pets with safe, secure housing in an emergency, such as during a natural disaster.

Bottom line: The expanded use of crates, once just for shipping by air, has been one of more significant advances in modern dog training and care.

Most dogs learn quickly that a crate is “a room of his own,” and as long as the pet isn’t left crated for extended periods of time, the crate is a tool that really and truly works well for all.

So how does a crate “magically” house-train a puppy?

Crate-training limits a puppy's options to three: He's either empty and playing in the house, he's in the crate and "holding it" because he doesn't want to sit in his own waste, or he's at the place you've chosen for him to relieve himself. A key to successful crate-training is to purchase a crate that's large enough to allow the puppy to turn around, but not so roomy that he can do his business in one corner and take a nap in the other.

It's also important that puppies are not left in their crates for extended periods of time. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, or after a period of play. Set up a schedule to accommodate his needs as you work to mold behavior; young puppies, especially small breeds or mixes, can't go very long without eating, drinking, sleeping or relieving themselves.

A good rule of thumb: Puppies can hold it as long as their age in months. A 2-month-old pup can hold it in a crate for about two hours, for example.

When the puppy walks into the crate, praise him and give him a toy or treat. But don’t make a huge fuss over his walking in — be calm and matter-of-fact about it. Your puppy should associate positive experiences with the crate, so he comes to think of it as a natural place to relax.

Let the puppy sleep next to your bed in his crate — sleeping near you speeds the bonding process. When he's young, he may wake you in the night to let you know he needs to go outside. But as he grows older, he should be able to make it through the night. Then, as soon as he's awake in the morning, lead him to the chosen outside spot. When he goes, praise him thoroughly. Then take him inside for breakfast. Feed him and offer him water, and then take him out for another chance to go. If he goes, more praise and back inside for play. Once he's completely empty, put him in the crate. Ignore the whines and whimpers. If left alone, the puppy will soon be fast asleep and will stay that way until it's time for the next round of out, eat/drink, out, play, crate.

Remember, the goal is for your puppy to become reliable enough to roam free in your house, not to stay in a crate for life. A crate is not a storage container for a dog.

Eventually, your pet will spend more of his time loose in the house under your supervision, and he will start asking to visit his outdoor spot. Don't forget to confirm his early attempts at proper behavior by rewarding him with praise and treats.

If you spot an in-house accident, don't punish your pet. Rubbing his nose in the mess is pointless and mean. If you catch your dog in the act, a stern "no" will suffice, followed by an immediate trip to the yard and praise when he finishes up where he's supposed to. Clean up the inside mess thoroughly, treating the area with an enzymatic solution to neutralize the smell.

With proper crate-training, the number of such incidents will be relatively few, and you'll end up with a dog who is not only reliable in the house, but also confident in his own ability to stay alone when you are gone.

All information in this post is from Vetstreet.

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Why does my dog eat grass??

8:58 AM | Labels: Dogs, Feeding, Information

Who hasn’t wondered, “Why does my pet eat grass?” The truth is there isn’t one clear reason. What we do know is that eating small amounts of grass can be a harmless, albeit curious, thing for a perfectly healthy dog or cat to do. But when nibbling turns into gulping great hunks of the stuff — and grassy vomit hits the kitchen tile — it’s time to wonder what’s going on.

Causes

Your vet may consider several reasons your pet is eating grass, including these:

1. Behavioral drives. Pica is a word used to describe eating things that do not serve a biologic or nutritional purpose — such as when a pet eats paper or plastic. It may be that the behavior feels good or there is some other behavioral reason. But a medical issue, such as a neurologic disease, can cause pica, so it shouldn’t be completely written off without discussing with your vet.

2. Nutritional cravings. Even though a dog or cat may be eating a nutritionally complete diet, that doesn't mean that cravings for certain things (such as grass) don't occur.

3. Idiopathic causes. Idiopathic means simply that the veterinarian doesn't know the exact cause. But you should continue to watch the situation.

What To Do at Home

Owners who observe their pets frequently nibbling grass probably don’t need to rush to the emergency room. Rather, they should watch their pets to gain more information about the grass eating. Ask yourself:

Does my pet eat grass voraciously?
Does he vomit or feel sick afterward?
Is there pattern? For example, does it also happen on days when he doesn’t eat all of his food?

If you answer no to the first two, there’s probably no need to raise the issue with your veterinarian. If the answer to either is yes, it’s worth paying attention to No. 3.

Armed with this information, owners can then present their findings to their veterinarians.

What Your Veterinarian Will Do

Your pet’s doctor will begin looking for a medical condition at work in the grass consumption. The goal is to figure out if it is a sign of a minor ailment, a more serious disease, or nothing more than normal albeit slightly eccentric behavior.

Normally the vet will start with the least invasive test and move on to more expensive, more invasive tests as needed (which will depend on the severity of the symptoms). From least to most invasive:

Fecal examination (to check for parasites)
Blood work: CBC, blood chemistry
Urinalysis
X-rays
Abdominal ultrasound
Barium study (a type of x-ray study for examining the intestinal tract)
CT scan
Endoscopy with biopsies
Exploratory laparoscopy with biopsies

Few grass-eaters are likely to have ever suffered an exploratory laparoscopy to surgically look into the contents of an abdomen and biopsy the gastrointestinal tract, but severe symptoms could theoretically lead a veterinarian to decide this is the best approach.

Not every grass-eater has a serious medical problem, though. For many pets who want to sample the lawn, the prescription may be to let them go right ahead. Just make sure the grass is not treated with any chemicals that could be harmful if your pet eats them.

All information in this blog post is from Vetstreet.

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Traveling with your pet

8:19 AM | Labels: Dogs, Information, Travel

The number of people who travel with their dogs is growing, and so too are the options for pets on the road. From "ruffing it" at campgrounds to enjoying fabulous four-star hotels, the time has never been better to pack up your pet and go.

Traveling with dogs offers some challenges, but nearly all are surmountable with common sense and creativity. Here’s what you need to know when you’re on the road.

Step 1: Talk With Your Vet

While most dogs come to enjoy riding in the car, many need help getting to that stage. Just like some people, some pets get motion sickness, while in others the problem is anxiety. Some dogs vomit when experiencing motion sickness. Other pets may drool excessively, with copious amounts of saliva drenching the upholstery, or pant uncontrollably. Some pets may do all of these.

Talk to your veterinarian about medications that can help address issues like anxiety and vomiting. For some pets – the anxious ones -- the medication may only be needed while your pet learns to become more comfortable in the car. For those pets with queasy tummies, anti-anxiety and anti-vomiting medication may always be needed when traveling. Your veterinarian can also advise you if medication is not the best option for your dog.

Step 2: Get Your Dog Acclimatized

Teach your dog to enjoy riding by using treats to reward tiny steps such as walking up to the car (treat), getting in (treat), getting into a harness or crate (treat) and then treats for progressively longer rides. Make sure during the learning period that the destination is somewhere she wants to go: A park, a pet-store or business where treats are handed out, or another place where your dog feels comfortable and happy, such as a friend’s house.

If your dog doesn’t seem to be getting more comfortable in the car, talk to your veterinarian about a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can help.

Step 3: Get the Gear

While many of us remember our dogs riding shotgun, often with his head out the window, safety experts now advise that dogs be secured in the vehicle in a crate or harness. In an accident, a loose dog is a danger to herself, to others in the car and to everyone on the road. It is easy for one accident to turn into many if other drivers have to not only avoid your collision but also a terrified dog. Crates are probably the best means of safe restraint, but if you have a big dog and a small car, a crate likely isn’t an option. Fortunately, the last few years have seen many companies develop car-harness restraints that are not only comfortable for your dog but also work with your vehicle’s seat belts or child-seat anchors.

What about barriers? While these have long been popular in wagons, vans and SUVs, many barriers crumble or collapse under the forward impact of a dog in a crash. If you choose a barrier, be sure it can be secured to the car’s frame and is sturdy enough to hold up in an accident. If not, use a crate or a seat-belt harness.

Once restraint is under control, you’ll need to have food and water dishes and spill-proof containers for both. You’ll also need a leash and a comfortable travel harness or collar, and pick-up bags for cleaning up after your pet. A basic pet first-aid kit is recommended as well, and travel will be easier if you have a book of pet-friendly hotels or a tablet or smart phone app with these listings. Make sure you bring any medication your pet is on, along with what you need to give the pills, such as a pill gun or pill pockets.

And make sure your pet has an ID tag with your cell phone number on it. Even better: An ID tag and a microchip -- and make sure your pet’s chip is registered and the information is current.

4. Don’t Forget to Take Breaks

Walk your pet well before you hit the road to give her a chance to relieve herself. Once you’re en route, schedule potty breaks at least every few hours. Offer water at these breaks, and keep your pet’s feeding schedule as close to normal as possible. If your pet is on medication for nausea or anxiety, ask your veterinarian when to give the pills – with meals, on an empty stomach, an hour before you leave and so on.

Even if your dog knows to come when called in your own neighborhood, keep your pet on leash when traveling. Many pets get confused in new places and situations and may not be reliable off-leash, even where it’s allowed. And be responsible: Not only should you pick up after your pet but you should also prevent your pet from bothering others, whether by barking in a hotel room or running up to people who may not like dogs.

And most important: Remember that even on a day that’s merely “warm” the temperature in a car can reach dangerous levels within minutes – well over 100°F – even if the windows are partially opened.

Traveling with a dog has never been more popular, and never have there been so many products to help you and hotels to welcome you. Take advantage of dog-friendly America and you’ll both be happier.

All information in this post is from Vetstreet.

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Chocolate is dangerous for pets

Estimates of the smallest amounts that can be fatal are:

Meowch! Helping Your Cat Cope with Chronic Pain

Top 10 steps for a healthy dog

What is this lump??

Crate Training

Using a crate to raise a puppy is the kindest and fairest method of all, because it provides a puppy with a lesson for life. Not only does a puppy learn when to and where not to relieve himself, but he also grows up feeling relaxed, safe and secure in confinement.

Why does my dog eat grass??

What To Do at Home

What Your Veterinarian Will Do

Traveling with your pet

Step 2: Get Your Dog Acclimatized

Step 3: Get the Gear

4. Don’t Forget to Take Breaks